VICTORIA SPONGE
SERVES 8
When the days of winter seem unending, strawberries and rhubarb are the light at the end of the tunnel. They practically sing the sweetness of spring. While I love a classic strawberry rhubarb pie, this is a mighty fine way to enjoy that combination too.
For the strawberry-rhubarb filling:
1 pound (455 g) rhubarb, stems only, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) pieces
2 cups (400 g) fresh strawberries, hulled and halved
¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
For the cake:
1 cup (2 sticks/225 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar
4 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 cups (375 g) self-rising flour
For the whipped cream filling and assembly:
1½ cups (360 ml) heavy cream
¼ cup (25 g) powdered sugar, plus more for dusting
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
To make the strawberry-rhubarb filling: In a medium saucepan, combine the rhubarb, 1 cup (200 g) of the strawberries, and the sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the rhubarb is tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the remaining 1 cup (200 g) strawberries and the vanilla. Set aside to cool completely.
To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter two 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pans.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Add the flour, beating until just combined.
Divide the mixture evenly between the prepared cake pans. The batter will be thick, so use a spatula to spread it.
Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Allow the layers to cool for 10 minutes in the pans before turning them out onto a wire rack to cool completely.
To make the whipped cream: In a chilled bowl, combine the cream, powdered sugar, and vanilla. Using a chilled whisk, whip by hand or with an electric mixer until soft peaks form.
To assemble the cake: Place one cake layer on a serving plate, spread the strawberry-rhubarb filling on top, and cover with the whipped cream. Set the second layer on top and dust the cake with powdered sugar just before serving.
STRAWBERRY LAYER CAKE
with Strawberry-Basil Buttercream
SERVES 8
With its bright pink frosting and fluffy layers, this is a celebration cake through and through.
For the strawberry puree:
4 cups (800 g) fresh strawberries, hulled and halved
¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar
For the cake:
3 cups (420 g) cake flour
3½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks/225 g) unsalted butter
2 cups (400 g) granulated sugar
4 large eggs
¼ cup (60 ml) whole milk
¾ cup (180 ml) strawberry puree (see above)
For the frosting:
2 cups (4 sticks/450 g) unsalted butter
3 to 4 cups (300 to 400 g) powdered sugar
6 tablespoons (90 ml) strawberry puree (see above)
Pinch of salt
Whole milk, as needed
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil
To make the strawberry puree: In a small saucepan, combine the strawberries and sugar and simmer over medium-low heat for 15 minutes, or until soft. Allow the mixture to cool, then pour it into a blender and puree until smooth.
To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter three 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pans and line the bottoms with buttered parchment.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition.
In a measuring cup, combine the milk and strawberry puree.
Alternate adding the flour mixture and the strawberry milk to the mixer bowl, beginning and ending with the flour.
Divide the batter evenly among the prepared pans, smoothing the tops. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cakes comes out clean. Transfer the pans to wire racks for 10 minutes, then unmold and peel off the parchment paper.
To make the frosting: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter until pale and creamy, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the speed and add 1 cup (100 g) of the powdered sugar. Add half the strawberry puree and the salt and beat to combine. Add the remaining 2 to 3 cups (200 to 300 g) powdered sugar and the remaining strawberry puree, and add milk, as needed. Add the basil and stir.
To assemble the cake: Place one cake layer on a serving plate, spread the frosting on top, then spread on a layer of strawberry puree. Add the next cake layer and repeat. Add the top cake layer and cover the outside of the cake with frosting.
Black Pepper–Roasted Strawberry
BUTTERMILK CAKE
SERVES 8
When strawberries are back in season, I always end up buying baskets and baskets of them from my farmers' market. Inevitably, there are a few that don't get eaten in time and are almost overripe. Roasting them with black pepper intensifies their flavor and creates puddles of jammy sweetness.
If you've got small strawberries, don't bother halving them. You want sizable bites of strawberry throughout the cake.
For the roasted strawberries:
1 pound (455 g) fresh strawberries, hulled and halved
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For the cake:
1½ cups (170 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup (1 stick/115 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup (120 ml) buttermilk
To roast the strawberries: Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a medium bowl, combine the strawberries, oil, sugar, and pepper. Arrange the berries in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Roast them for 20 to 25 minutes, or until they are soft. Allow them to cool.
To make the cake: Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan or 9-inch (23-cm) cast-iron skillet.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well and scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Add the vanilla.
Alternately add the flour mixture and buttermilk to the mixer bowl, beginning and ending with the flour.
Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and top it with the strawberries. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Allow the cake to cool for 10 minutes in the pan before turning out onto a wire rack to cool completely.
Frozen
STRAWBERRY CHEESECAKE
SERVES 8
I'm not usually one for decadent desserts—I prefer rustic, homey flavors—but this frozen cheesecake makes me a believer in indulgence. There's something so enticing about the contrast between the creamy cold cheesecake and the warm salted fudge sauce.
For the crust:
1½ cups (130 g) graham cracker crumbs (from about 12 whole crackers)
3 tablespoons (45 g) unsalted butter, melted
For the filling:
1 pound (455 g) fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered
¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar
2 (8-ounce/226-g) packages cream cheese, softened
1 cup (240 ml) vanilla Greek yogurt
¾ cup (75 g) powdered sugar
For the fudge sauce:
½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
¼ cup (60 ml) light corn syrup
¼ cup (55 g) packed dark brown sugar
¼ cup (20 g) unsweetened cocoa powder
¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt
3 ounces (85 g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
To make the crust: In a medium bowl, stir together the graham cracker crumbs and butter. Press them into the bottom of a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan. Place the pan in the freezer while you make the filling.
To make the filling: In a small saucepan, combine half the strawberries, the granulated sugar, and 2 tablespoons water. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to medium-low, and allow to simmer until the berries are soft and the liquid is syrupy. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the berries to cool.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese and yogurt. Add the powdered sugar and the strawberry mixture and mix until combined. Stir in the remaining strawberries. Pour the filling over the graham cracker crust and smooth the top. Freeze the cake until firm, about 4 hours or overnight.
To make the fudge sauce: In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, corn syrup, brown sugar, cocoa powder, and salt and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the chocolate, butter, and vanilla and stir until melted. Reduce the heat to low and allow the sauce to simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, then remove it from the heat and allow it to cool to slightly.
Pour the fudge sauce over the top of the cheesecake.
STRAWBERRY-MINT SHORTCAKES
MAKES 6
Shortcake is maybe the most classic way of serving fresh strawberries, and for good reason. The warm, slightly sweet biscuit is the perfect vehicle for berries and whipped cream. I've stayed close to the original here (no need to fix what isn't broken!) and only added a bit of fresh mint to brighten the flavor.
For the strawberry-mint filling:
1 pound (455 g) fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered
2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped
¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar
For the shortcakes:
4 tablespoons (55 g) unsalted butter, chilled
1¾ cups (225 g) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling
¾ cup (180 ml) chilled heavy cream, plus more for brushing tops
For the whipped cream:
1 cup (240 ml) chilled heavy cream
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
To make the strawberry-mint filling: In a small bowl, combine the strawberries, mint, and sugar. Set them aside while you make the shortcakes, allowing the berries to macerate for at least 30 minutes.
To make the shortcakes: Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
Grate the butter into a small bowl using the large side of a cheese grater. Stick the grated butter in the freezer for about 20 minutes.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar. Add the butter and cut it in with a fork. Add the cream and mix until just combined.
On a floured work surface, pat the dough into a round about ½ inch (12 mm) thick. Using a 3-inch (7.5-cm) biscuit cutter, cut out as many shortcakes as possible. Transfer them to a baking sheet, brush the tops with cream, and sprinkle them with sugar. Bake until the shortcakes are golden brown, 16 to 18 minutes. Transfer them to a wire rack and allow to cool slightly.
To make the whipped cream: Combine the cream and powdered sugar in a chilled bowl and, using a chilled whisk, whip by hand or with an electric mixer until soft peaks form.
To assemble the shortcakes: Cut the shortcakes in half horizontally and fill them with whipped cream and strawberry-mint filling. Be sure to pour some of the juice over the tops!
CHOCOLATE-CHERRY CUPCAKES
with Coffee Buttercream
MAKES 12
These cupcakes were inspired by a slice of Black Forest cake served with a demitasse of espresso I had once in a little café. I loved that pairing and just had to recreate it.
For the cupcakes:
½ cup (1 stick/115 g) unsalted butter
4 ounces (115 g) bittersweet chocolate
1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour
½ cup (40 g) unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup (220 g) packed light brown sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup (120 ml) buttermilk
1 cup (155 g) pitted, chopped fresh cherries
For the buttercream:
6 large egg yolks, room temperature
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
1 cup (2 sticks/225 g) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into pieces
3 tablespoons instant espresso powder
1 tablespoon hot water
Whole cherries, for topping
To make the cupcakes: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a cupcake pan with paper liners.
In a medium heatproof bowl, combine the butter and chocolate. Place the bowl over a simmering pot of water and stir until the mixture is melted and smooth. Allow to cool.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
In a large bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla. Stir in the cooled chocolate mixture. Alternate adding the flour mixture and buttermilk, beginning and ending with the flour. Stir in the cherries.
Divide the batter evenly among the paper liners, filling each two-thirds full. Bake for 17 to 20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
To make the buttercream: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks until they are pale in color, about 5 minutes.
In a small saucepan, bring the sugar and ¼ cup (60 ml) water to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. Pour this syrup into a glass measuring cup.
Drizzle a small amount of syrup into the yolks and beat for 5 seconds. Repeat this process until all the syrup is incorporated. Continue beating until the mixture has cooled.
Switch to the paddle attachment and add the butter one piece at a time until all has been incorporated. In a cup, dissolve the espresso powder in the hot water and beat it into the buttercream.
When the cupcakes have cooled, frost them and top them with the cherries.
Cherry-Almond
BROWN BUTTER CAKE
SERVES 8
I love this cake for its simplicity. It's easy to throw together before friends arrive—you don't need to pull out the mixer, and it only takes a few minutes total to prepare. If I'm feeling particularly decadent, I like to stir some dark chocolate chunks into the batter.
½ cup (1 stick/115 g) unsalted butter
1½ cups (170 g) all-purpose flour
½ cup (70 g) almond flour
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup (120 ml) whole milk, room temperature
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon almond extract
½ cup (80 g) pitted whole fresh cherries
¼ cup (30 g) slivered almonds
Powdered sugar, for dusting
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until it turns golden brown and nutty scented. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan.
In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, almond flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, eggs, vanilla, almond extract, and the browned butter.
Pour the wet mixture into the dry mixture, stirring to combine. Stir in the cherries.
Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and sprinkle it with the almonds. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Allow to cool for 10 minutes in the pan before turning it onto a wire rack to cool completely. Dust the cake with powdered sugar before serving.
Dark Sweet Cherry
UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
SERVES 8
My childhood was full of upside-down cakes, generally the classic pineapple-and-maraschino cherry type that's so often served at a church potluck. You can't go wrong with gooey caramelized fruit in a buttery cake batter, but my version adds depth to the sweet fruit with a bit of almond extract and balsamic vinegar.
¾ cup (1½ sticks/170 g) unsalted butter
¾ cup (165 g) packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 cups (310 g) pitted dark sweet cherries
1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour
½ cup (70 g) almond flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon almond extract
½ cup (120 ml) whole milk
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan.
Melt 4 tablespoons (½ stick/55 g) of the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, then add the brown sugar and stir until dissolved. Stir in the vinegar. Pour the mixture into the prepared cake pan and place the cherries on top.
In a small bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, almond flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the remaining ½ cup (1 stick/115 g) butter and the granulated sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Beat in the vanilla and the almond extract. Alternate adding the flour mixture and milk to the mixer bowl, beginning and ending with the flour.
Spread the batter over the cherries and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes.
Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then invert it onto a plate.
RHUBARB BUCKLE
with Custard Sauce
SERVES 8
Rhubarb and custard are a traditional British pairing, and one I wholeheartedly support. The tart flavor of the rhubarb is mellowed by the sweet creaminess of the custard sauce.
For the custard sauce:
3 large egg yolks
Pinch of salt
1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
⅓ cup (65 g) granulated sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
For the crumble topping:
½ cup (110 g) packed light brown sugar
¾ cup (60 g) old-fashioned oats
¼ cup (30 g) all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
Pinch of salt
4 tablespoons (55 g) unsalted butter, melted
For the cake:
2 cups (255 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup (1 ½ sticks/170 g) unsalted butter
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
1 large egg
½ cup (120 ml) buttermilk
1 pound (455 g) rhubarb, stems only, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) pieces
To make the custard sauce: Fill a large bowl with ice and cold water, and set it nearby. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and salt.
In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and sugar to a simmer over medium heat. Slowly pour the hot milk mixture into the egg yolks, whisking the entire time. Pour the milk and egg mixture back into the saucepan and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.
Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Pour the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl. Set the bowl into the ice water. Let it cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. When the custard is cool, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface and refrigerate it while making the cake.
To make the crumble topping: Combine the brown sugar, oats, flour, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt in a medium bowl. Pour in the butter and stir until clumps form. Place the bowl in the freezer while you make the cake.
To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9-inch (23-cm) cast-iron skillet or round baking pan.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, ginger, and salt.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in the egg. Add in half of the flour mixture, then the buttermilk, then the rest of the flour. Gently mix in the rhubarb. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Top the cake with the crumble topping.
Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow it to cool completely. Serve it with a generous helping of custard sauce.
HONEY CAKE
with Vanilla-Rhubarb Jam
SERVES 8
I wasn't a fan of rhubarb after having terrible rhubarb pie as a teenager. But a few years ago, a friend offered me some fresh from his garden. I couldn't turn him down, and I decided to make a rhubarb jam, throwing in a vanilla bean for good measure. Well, hello, deliciousness! It's great slathered on a slice of this honey cake.
For the jam:
1 pound (455 g) rhubarb, stems only, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
Seeds of 1 vanilla bean
For the cake:
2 cups (255 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup (1½ sticks/170 g) unsalted butter
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar
3 large eggs
½ cup (120 ml) wildflower honey
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup (120 ml) buttermilk
Raw sugar, for topping
To make the jam: In a large pot, combine the rhubarb, sugar, lemon juice and zest, and vanilla bean seeds. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to low and let the mixture simmer for 30 to 45 minutes, until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon.
Pour the jam into a clean jar. It will keep for up to 2 weeks.
To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9-by-5-inch (23-by-12-cm) loaf pan.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Add the honey and vanilla and beat for another minute.
Alternate adding the flour mixture and buttermilk to the mixer bowl, beginning and ending with the flour.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan, top it with raw sugar, and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Allow it to cool slightly, then cut the cake into slices and serve with a good dollop of vanilla-rhubarb jam.
Honeysuckle
BREEZE CAKE
SERVES 6 TO 8
I have so many memories of standing out in the woods as a kid, sucking the sweet nectar out of the flowers. One spring I tried to bottle that flavor and came up with this honeysuckle syrup. When added to the frosting, it gives this cake the sweet floral scent and taste of the blossoms.
For the honeysuckle water and syrup:
4 cups (100 g) honeysuckle blossoms, lightly packed
Boiling water
Granulated sugar
For the cake:
1⅔ cups (215 g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup (1 stick/115 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup (120 ml) buttermilk
½ cup (120 ml) honeysuckle water (see above)
For the frosting:
3 large egg whites
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar
1 cup (240 ml) honeysuckle syrup (see above)
To make the honeysuckle water and syrup: Place the honeysuckle in a bowl and pour over just enough boiling water to cover the blossoms. Cover the bowl, allow to cool, then refrigerate overnight or for up to 24 hours.
After steeping the flowers (they will look totally gross and brown, but smell amazing), strain the liquid into a large bowl, discarding the blossoms. Reserve ½ cup (120 ml) of this honeysuckle water for the cake. Measure the remaining liquid and pour it into a large saucepan. For each cup (240 ml) of honeysuckle water, add 1 cup (200 g) sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and simmer until the sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Remove it from the heat and let cool. Set aside 1 cup (240 ml) of the syrup for the frosting. The remaining syrup can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter two 6-inch (15-cm) round cake pans.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs and yolks one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Stir in the vanilla.
In a small bowl, stir together the buttermilk and honeysuckle water. Alternate adding the flour mixture and milk mixture to the egg mixture, beginning and ending with the flour.
Divide batter evenly between the prepared pans. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow the layers to cool for 10 minutes in the pans before turning them out onto a wire rack.
To make the frosting: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites and cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Slowly add the sugar and whip until firm peaks form.
In a medium saucepan, bring the honeysuckle syrup to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil until a candy thermometer reads 248°F (120°C).
Begin beating the egg whites again and slowly pour in the boiling honeysuckle syrup in a slow stream. Beat until stiff peaks have formed and the frosting has cooled.
To assemble the cake: Place a cake layer on a plate and spread frosting on top, then cover it with the remaining layer. Cover the outside of the cake with the remaining frosting.
Rhubarb-Ginger
ICE CREAM ROLL
SERVES 10
Tart rhubarb is most often paired with something sweet, like strawberries, but it's equally tasty with spicy ginger. This roll can be served immediately or frozen for up to 1 month.
For the filling:
1 pound (455 g) fresh rhubarb, stems only, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) pieces
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar
For the cake and assembly:
½ cup butter (1 stick/115 g) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the pan
Powdered sugar, for dusting
⅔ cup (85 g) all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar
2 (1-pint/475-ml) containers vanilla ice cream, softened
To make the filling: In a medium saucepan, combine the rhubarb, ginger, and sugar. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat and allow it to cook until the rhubarb is soft and the liquid has thickened slightly, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 10-by-15-inch (25-by-38-cm) jelly-roll pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper and butter the paper. Lay a clean kitchen towel out on your work surface and sprinkle it with powdered sugar so the cake won't stick.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and salt.
In a heatproof bowl, over a pot of simmering water, combine the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar. Whisk until the mixture is warmed through and the sugar has dissolved. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat until it's pale and thick, about 5 minutes. Gently stir in the flour and butter.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 15 minutes.
Immediately run a knife around the edges of the pan to loosen the cake. Turn the cake out onto the prepared kitchen towel, leaving the paper on. Fold the sides of the towel over the cake, and roll the cake up in the towel. Allow the cake to cool completely, seam-side down.
To assemble the roll: Unroll the cake and peel off the paper. Spread the rhubarb filling evenly over the top. Cover it with the ice cream. Roll up the cake and place it on a plate, seam-side down, then trim the ends. Dust the cake with powdered sugar just before serving.
Rhubarb
KUCHEN
SERVES 8
Kuchen is the German version of coffee cake, a lightly sweet yeasted dough covered with fresh fruit and a streusel. I like it with rhubarb, but it would be great with cherries or plums too.
For the dough:
1 package (2¼ teaspoons/10 g) active dry yeast
¼ cup (60 ml) warm water (approximately 110°F/45°C)
2¼ cups (285 g) all-purpose flour
⅔ cup (130 g) granulated sugar
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup (120 ml) warm milk (approximately 110°F/45°C)
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
6 tablespoons (¾ stick/85 g) unsalted butter, softened
For the filling:
½ pound (225 g) rhubarb, stems only, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) pieces
Zest of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
For the streusel:
1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup (110 g) packed light brown sugar
4 tablespoons (55 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
To make the dough: In a small bowl, combine the yeast and warm water and let the mixture stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Add in the yeast, milk, eggs, vanilla, and almond extract, beating until smooth. Add in the butter and beat until the batter is silky and smooth.
Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then cover it with a kitchen towel and allow the dough to rise about 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
To make the filling: Combine the rhubarb, lemon zest, and brown sugar in a small bowl and set aside.
To make the streusel: Combine the flour, salt, brown sugar, and butter in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until clumps form. Set aside.
To assemble the kuchen: Butter an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan. Punch down the dough, then spread it evenly into the prepared pan. Cover it with the rhubarb filling, then the streusel, and allow the dough to rise for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Allow it to cool completely in the pan before serving.
Savory
SPINACH CAKE
SERVES 8
A savory cake might be unexpected in the company of these desserts, but this one is so good I just had to include the recipe. I like to serve it for a simple Sunday brunch, with a dollop of crème fraîche or a drizzle of honey on top and a big salad on the side.
1½ cups (170 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs
½ cup (120 ml) plain Greek yogurt
⅓ cup (75 ml) olive oil
1 cup (30 g) packed baby spinach leaves
½ cup (50 g) walnuts, toasted and chopped
½ cup (80 g) dried cherries
½ cup (60 g) feta cheese
Crème fraîche, for serving
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and pepper.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, yogurt, and oil. Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture. Stir in the spinach, walnuts, cherries, and feta.
Spread the batter into the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Allow it to cool slightly and top with crème fraîche to serve.
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