Every culture has a method of fermenting or distilling local products into alcoholic beverages. Grapes are turned into wine and grains become whiskey or beer. In the Spanish-speaking world, the two most important components for making spirits are the Mexican succulent plants agave and maguey (creating tequila and mezcal) and sugarcane (responsible for rum and cachaça). Grapes in Argentina and Chile are now made into wines that are appreciated around the world, and both Chile and Peru distill grapes into the heady liquor pisco.
The beverages in this chapter are organized by spirit: tequila, mezcal, rum, pisco, and cachaça, as well as beer- and wine-based drinks. Each section includes a brief overview of the category. After all, there have been entire books written on each of these spirits, so I will not come close to being exhaustive. I'll share some of my best cocktail recipes with you so that you can become known as a party-giver whose drinks are as delicious as their food.
SETTING UP THE BAR
To easily prepare a full range of cocktails, you only need a few basic tools. These utensils really make bartending a breeze. I have seen people substitute wooden spoons for a muddler when making mojitos, but the muddler is much more efficient. Conversely, would you use a muddler to stir a pot? I don't think so. Use the right tool for the job. Here are the basic tools you'll need, in order of importance.
THE HOUSE DRINK
Great bartenders have an encyclopedic knowledge of the various formulas for different cocktails. At home, instead of having to make a different drink for each guest, I recommend the "house cocktail," so you just have to make one terrific drink for the party.
You can expand on this by choosing a single spirit with a couple of special ingredients at hand to mix up a tight selection of tasty cocktails. For example, for a Mexican menu, tequila drinks are more than appropriate-some might say they are a necessity! With some grapefruit soda and ginger ale as mixers, I can offer Perfect Palomas or Ginger Fizzes. Watermelon Agua Fresca can be served as is or spiked. Or I could have a Caipirinha selection, muddling various fruits and berries (or even cucumber) into the basic drink for variety.
What makes a great cocktail? If you look closely at the recipes for most famous drinks, especially the Latin ones, it's all about balance. You may begin with a pretty strong spirit, but its strength is mellowed with fruit juice and sweetened with sugar or agave. There might be an accent flavoring in the form of bitters or salt on the rim of the glass. When a drink is served on the rocks or shaken with ice, the slight dilution helps to soften the alcoholic flavor, and this makes a better-tasting drink.
Of course, if someone wants a martini, I'll make one. But more often than not, my guests enjoy a change of pace and like being surprised with what I am offering at a party that might be different from the last get-together. And I always have plenty of booze-free choices.
Jigger: Accurate measuring of ingredients ensures consistent cocktails. Many a well-meaning bartender has ruined a drink through sloppy measuring. Every cocktail has a specific recipe, usually given in fluid ounces. Always measure the ingredients for cocktails with a jigger, which is the name of both the small cup and the measuring increment. One jigger equals 1½ ounces (45 ml), and is sometimes called a shot. A jigger with clearly demarked measurement is the most useful and easiest to use. If you have an unmarked jigger, be sure that you know its volume-there are 1-ounce (30-ml) jigger glasses, not to mention models with two different-size cups.
Cocktail shakers: There is no sound that says "Party!" like the clunk of a shaking mixer. Many of my favorite cocktails (margarita, I'm looking at you…) are shaken with ice to combine and chill the ingredients at the same time. Most professional bartenders prefer the Boston shaker, consisting of a mixer glass and a metal shaker top, each with a capacity of about 16 ounces (480 ml). The cocktail ingredients are combined with ice in the glass section and capped with the metal shaker. After shaking for about 10 seconds, the cap is removed, and the drink is poured through a cocktail strainer into a glass. (Note that when serving "on the rocks," fresh ice is used in the serving glass, as the ice in the shaker has begun to melt.) The Boston shaker is popular with pros because it is sturdy and easy to wash.
Home bartenders tend to like the cobbler shaker, a three-piece unit with a large bottom container, a top with a built-in strainer/spout, and the spout cover. This shaker comes in a variety of attractive styles and materials, mainly glass, metal, or a combination of the two. A third model, the Parisian shaker, has a spout sprouting from its side to make it look like a cross between a cobbler shaker and a coffee server.
Cocktail strainers: A Boston shaker is used in conjunction with a cocktail strainer. Position the strainer over the mixer glass, cup your hand over the top of the mixer to hold the two together, and pour the drink through the strainer into the serving glass. There are two styles, which are interchangeable. The Hawthorne strainer has a spring around its edge so it fits snugly in the mixer. A julep strainer is perforated and slightly concave, and isn't as easy to use as the sturdy Hawthorne, but it does the job well. Some drinks are double-strained to remove any bits of fruit or vegetable pulp. In this case, the drink is strained from the mixer through a small wire sieve over the serving glass.
Muddler: This wide stick is used to crush fruit, vegetables, or herbs in the glass so they can release every bit of their flavor into the drink. There are metal, hard plastic, and even polished wood models. A muddler is indispensable for making caipirinhas, not to mention a host of other contemporary and classic cocktails.
Bar spoon: Not all cocktails are shaken. Shaking aerates the drink and gives it a slightly foamy appearance, so if you want a clear cocktail, stirring is better. A long spoon that reaches all the way to the bottom of the glass is ideal, and it is best to have a spoon dedicated for mixing drinks on your bar. The proper length of time to stir a drink is about 8 seconds, which is long enough to chill the liquid and slightly dilute the ice. Contrary to popular belief (disproving the myth that frozen vodka served without ice makes the best martini), the small amount of water from the ice actually improves the drinks as it mellows the harsh alcohol flavor.
Citrus juicers: For a single drink, a wooden citrus reamer works well to extract the juice from citrus. Many bartenders swear by the equally low-tech Mexican metal juicers that work by the lever principle. These come in three sizes and colors for various fruits: orange (large, for oranges and small grapefruits), yellow (medium, for lemons), and green (small, for limes). However, when you need to make a lot of juice for a party, an electric citrus juicer cannot be beat.
BASIC COCKTAIL SYRUPS
These three syrups, easily prepared, are essential ingredients in many cocktails. They can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.
SIMPLE SYRUP: Some cocktails use a light-bodied syrup as a sweetener to ensure that the drink isn't gritty with bits of undissolved sugar. Shake ½ cup (100 g) sugar and ½ cup (120 ml) hot water together in a covered container to dissolve the sugar. Let it cool. Makes about ¾ cup (180 ml).
HOMEMADE SWEET & SOUR MIX: Never make margaritas with packaged sweet and sour mix! This blend of sweetened fresh citrus juices is the only way to go. Shake ¼ cup (60 ml) Simple Syrup, ¼ cup (60 ml) fresh lemon juice, and ¼ cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice together in a covered container. Makes ¾ cup (180 ml).
HOMEMADE GRENADINE: Now that pomegranate juice is sold at every supermarket, consider making your own. Bring 1 cup (240 ml) bottled unsweetened pomegranate juice and ½ cup (100 g) sugar to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to very low and simmer until the liquid is very slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Let it cool. Transfer to a covered container for storage.
Channel tool: This metal tool is notched to cut citrus zest into long strips for cocktail garnishes.
Electric blender: The problem with frozen drinks at home is that the noise of grinding ice is… well, grating. I have nothing against frozen drinks, as long as they are made with fresh fruit and homemade sour mix, and if they are prepared in a blender that gets the job done quickly with a minimum of noise. The best cocktail blender has a wide-bottomed jar to make a wide surface for crushing ice. This may or may not be the same mixer that you use for cooking.
I only use a blender to make nonalcoholic drinks. Many bartenders stay away from frozen cocktails because of their association with slushy kids' drinks. There is also a connection with frozen drinks and bad margaritas made with cheap mixto tequila, and I want to promote the finer things in life-like great tequila.
TEQUILA
Tequila is distilled from the fermented juice of the blue agave plant, a type of succulent with a decidedly blue-gray cast to its spiky leaves.
The production is restricted to an area around Guadalajara. Unless it is labeled as 100 percent blue agave, the tequila is probably a mixto, with the spirit diluted or sweetened to reduce the expense of production. Some of the most popular (or, I should say, highly advertised) tequila brands are mixtos. Using a 100 percent blue agave brand will immeasurably improve the quality of your tequila cocktails.
There are four main types of tequila:
Blanco: Also called silver, this clear white tequila is the most common for making cocktails. It is aged for less than sixty days, or sometimes not aged at all, giving it a rougher flavor that can stand up to mixers.
Joven: This mixto tequila has been colored, diluted, and flavored with caramel, giving it a golden color. While the official designation of this unaged tequila is joven ("young" in Spanish) it is also called oro ("gold"). I don't use this tequila much, but some people like joven tequila precisely because of its sweetness, especially when tossing back a shot… or two.
Reposado: Literally meaning "rested," reposado tequila is aged in wood casks for at least two and up to nine months. These tequilas have a fuller flavor, and can be used in cocktails where you want a bolder tequila taste. The best ones can be sipped like a fine whiskey.
Añejo: Aged in oak casks (often barrels leftover from American bourbon production) for anywhere from one to three years, añejo ("mature") is the Cognac of the tequila world. These tequilas are often served in snifters to fully showcase their earthy aroma and light gold color. Tequilas that have been aged for longer than three years are designated as Extra-Añejo.
MARGARITA
No one is sure who invented the margarita, although there are many people who claim to have done so. My version improves on the classic with agave to add a more rounded sweetness than from sugar alone.
SERVES 1
4 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
Kosher salt, for garnish
2½ ounces (75 ml) Homemade Sweet and Sour Mix (this page)
1½ ounces (45 ml) 100% agave tequila blanco
¾ ounce (25 ml) agave nectar
1 Lightly rub 1 of the lime wedges around the outside rim of a highball glass to moisten the glass; reserve the lime wedge. Pour a few tablespoons of salt into a saucer. Roll the rim of the glass in the salt and shake off the excess, being sure not to get any salt inside the glass. Save the remaining salt for another use. Fill the glass with ice.
2 Squeeze the remaining 3 lime wedges into a cocktail shaker, discarding the rinds. Add the sweet and sour mix, tequila, and agave. Fill the shaker with ice, cover, and shake it well. Strain the margarita into the glass. Garnish it with the reserved lime wedge.
VARIATION Jalapeño Margarita: Add ¼ seeded and thinly sliced jalapeño to the shaker with the tequila, agave, and sweet and sour mix. Crush the jalapeño well with a muddler. Proceed as directed.
STRAWBERRY
MARGARITA
There is no rule that says a fruit margarita has to be a slushy drink, and this strawberry rendition is just as tasty as anything that comes out of a blender.
SERVES 1
4 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
Kosher salt, for garnish
1½ ounces (45 ml) 100% agave tequila blanco
1½ ounces (45 ml) Homemade Sweet and Sour Mix (this page)
¾ ounce (25 ml) agave nectar
3 fresh strawberries, hulled
1 Lightly rub 1 of the lime wedges around the outside rim of a highball glass to moisten the glass; reserve the lime wedge. Pour a few tablespoons of salt into a saucer. Roll the rim of the glass in the salt and shake off the excess, being sure not to get any salt inside the glass. Save the remaining salt for another use. Fill the glass with ice.
2 Squeeze the remaining 3 lime wedges into a cocktail shaker, discarding the rinds. Add the tequila, sweet and sour mix, agave, and strawberries and crush the strawberries with a muddler. Fill the shaker with ice, cover, and shake it well. Strain the margarita into the prepared glass. Garnish it with the reserved lime wedge.
VARIATION Mango Margarita: Substitute ¼ peeled and pitted mango, cut into chunks, for the strawberries.
SPIKED
WATERMELON
AGUA FRESCA
You'll see big and colorful jars of aguas frescas (fresh fruit juice beverages) for sale at every Mexican outdoor market, and the watermelon flavor is always a favorite. Here it is, jazzed up with tequila.
SERVES 1
2½ ounces (75 ml) fresh watermelon juice (see Note)
1½ ounces (45 ml) Homemade Sweet and Sour Mix (this page)
1 ounce (30 ml) 100% agave tequila blanco
1 ounce (30 ml) triple sec
1 lime wedge, for garnish
Fill a cocktail shaker and highball glass with ice. Add the watermelon juice, sweet and sour mix, tequila, and triple sec. Cover the shaker and shake it well. Strain the agua fresca into the highball glass. Garnish it with the lime wedge.
NOTE To make fresh watermelon juice, purée 1 cup (150 g) diced seedless watermelon in a blender. Strain it in a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl. You should have about ⅔ cup (165 ml). The watermelon juice can be refrigerated in a covered container for up to 1 day.
PERFECT PALOMA
The Paloma, a refreshing mix of tequila and grapefruit soda, goes down easily on a hot afternoon. It deserves to be much more popular in this country.
SERVES 1
4 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
1½ ounces (45 ml) tequila reposado
½ ounce (15 ml) agave nectar
3 ounces (90 ml) grapefruit soda, as needed
Fill a highball glass with ice. Squeeze 3 of the lime wedges into the glass, discarding the rinds. Add the tequila and agave and stir well to combine. Top them off with enough grapefruit soda to fill the glass. Garnish the drink with the remaining lime wedge.
BLOODY MARIA
A Bloody Mary with tequila instead of vodka is a no-brainer. But it is the details (a chipotle salt rim, homemade tomato juice mix, and generous garnishes) that make the difference.
SERVES 1
2 tablespoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon pure ground chipotle chile
2 lime wedges (⅓ lime)
3 ounces (90 ml) Bloody Maria Mix (recipe follows)
1½ ounces (45 ml) 100% agave tequila blanco
1 long celery stick with leaves, for garnish
1 large pimiento-stuffed olive, speared, for garnish
1 Combine the salt and ground chipotle well in a saucer. Rub 1 of the lime wedges around the outside rim of a highball glass to moisten the glass; reserve the lime wedge. Roll the rim of the glass in the salt and shake off the excess, being sure not to get any salt inside the glass. Save the remaining salt for another use. Fill the glass with ice.
2 Squeeze the remaining lime wedge into an ice-filled cocktail shaker, discarding the rind. Add the Bloody Maria mix and tequila and shake them well. Strain the drink into the glass. Garnish it with the celery and olive.
BLOODY MARIA MIX
SERVES 10; MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (480 ML)
This homemade tomato juice blend gets a lift from fresh lemon and lime juices. It is much better than any store-bought Bloody Mary mix.
1 cup (240 ml) canned tomato juice
¼ cup (60 ml) fresh lemon juice
¼ cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice
¼ cup (60 g) prepared horseradish
¼ cup (60 ml) Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Purée the ingredients in a blender. Strain them through a wire sieve into a pitcher, cover, and refrigerate the mix until chilled, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.
GINGER FIZZ
This cocktail is simplicity personified, but it sure is good. Ginger beer is less sweet, with a spicier flavor than ginger ale, and like the latter, it is nonalcoholic. The main difference is that ginger ale is usually just ginger-flavored soda water, but ginger beer is actually fermented from scratch with fresh ginger.
SERVES 1
4 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
4 fresh mint leaves
1½ ounces (45 ml) 100% agave tequila blanco
3 ounces (90 ml) ginger beer, as needed
Muddle together 3 of the lime wedges with the mint leaves in a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice. Pour in the tequila and stir well. Top it off with ginger beer to fill the glass. Garnish the drink with the remaining lime wedge.
TEQUILA SUNRISE
The Tequila Sunrise is as 1970s as a mood ring. It is still worth making with fresh orange juice and a good tequila.
SERVES 1
3 ounces (90 ml) fresh orange juice
1½ ounces (45 ml) 100% agave tequila blanco
Splash of grenadine, preferably Homemade Grenadine (this page)
1 orange slice
Pour the orange juice and tequila into an ice-filled highball glass and stir well. Drizzle them with the grenadine. Garnish the drink with the orange slice.
TORONHA
Is it a variation of the Paloma, or a twist on the Tequila Sunrise? Who cares? It is a great way to end the work day… or start a fun evening.
SERVES 1
1½ ounces (45 ml) 100% agave tequila blanco
½ ounce (15 ml) triple sec
2 ounces (60 ml) grapefruit soda, as needed
Splash of grenadine, preferably Homemade Grenadine (this page)
1 orange slice
Pour the tequila and triple sec into an ice-filled highball glass. Stir them well to combine. Top them off with grapefruit soda to fill the glass and then the grenadine. Garnish the drink with the orange slice.
BUENAS NOCHES
A dash of chocolate bitters brings out the warm notes in this nightcap.
SERVES 1
2 ounces (60 ml) 100% agave tequila añejo
1 ounce (30 ml) Pedro Ximenez sherry, preferably Alvear 1927 Solera (see Note)
1 dash chocolate bitters, preferably Scrappy's
1 orange twist
Fill a martini glass with ice. Pour the tequila, sherry, and bitters into an ice-filled shaker. Shake them lightly and strain them into the martini glass. Garnish it with the orange twist.
NOTE Pedro Ximenez (nicknamed PX) is a grape variety used to make fine sherry. The producer Alvear makes a Pedro Ximenez Solera 1927 (created from vines planted in 1927) that is really essential to this cocktail. "Solera" refers to a specific barrel-aging process with incremental additions of old wine to young, giving the final bottling a complex flavor. This particular sherry is an affordable indulgence.
ROMPOPE
Rompope is clearly the Mexican version of eggnog, made with cooked (not raw) egg yolks, and with almonds for additional flavor. Be sure to use aged tequila or rum to cut through the rich creaminess of the base. Here is my family recipe.
SERVES 8
6 cups (1.4 L) whole milk
½ cup (55 g) blanched almond flour
6 large egg yolks
1 cup (200 g) sugar
½ cup (120 ml) 100% agave tequila añejo or añejo rum
Ground cinnamon, for garnish
1 Blend 1½ cups (360 ml) of the milk with the almond flour in a blender until the mixture is very smooth. Pour it into a saucepan and add the remaining milk.
2 Heat the milk mixture, whisking often, over medium heat until it comes to a simmer. Remove it from the heat.
3 Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup (240 ml) of the milk mixture. Whisk the egg yolk mixture back into the saucepan. Cook it over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is lightly thickened and reads 185°F (85°C) on an instant-read thermometer, about 2 minutes. Strain it through a wire-mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl. Let it cool completely. Stir in the tequila.
4 Cover and refrigerate the rompope until it is chilled, at least 2 hours. Pour it into individual cups or glasses, sprinkling each serving with ground cinnamon. Serve it chilled.
PONCHE
The Mexican warm fruit punch of the holiday season, ponche is sometimes nothing more than spiced syrup with booze. My family recipe is better, and infused with the tropical flavors of hibiscus and tamarind.
SERVES 10 TO 12
½ cup (2.0 g) dried hibiscus flowers (jamaica)
One 3-inch (7.5-cm) cinnamon stick
1 cup (200 g) sugar
½ cup (130 g) tamarind pulp, broken into pieces (see Notes)
Two 4-inch (10-cm) pieces fresh or frozen sugarcane, peeled and cut into 12 sticks (see Notes; optional)
24 fresh or drained bottled tejocotes (see Notes)
2 ripe guavas, cut into 12 wedges (see Notes)
One 375-ml bottle (1¾ cups) 100% agave tequila, brandy, or light rum
¼ cup (60 ml) orange-flavored liqueur, such as Grand Marnier
12 pitted dried plums
1 Bring 2½ quarts (2.5 L) water to a boil in a large nonreactive saucepan over high heat. Remove it from the heat and add the hibiscus flowers and cinnamon stick. Let them stand for 5 minutes. Add the sugar and tamarind and bring them to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring often to break up the tamarind, for 5 minutes. Strain the liquid into a large heatproof bowl, pressing hard on the solids; discard the solids.
2 Return the liquid to the pot. Add the sugarcane, if using, and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the liquid at a brisk simmer for 5 minutes. Strain it again to remove any tamarind debris.
3 Return the tea to the pot and add the tejocotes and guavas. Simmer until the guavas are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tequila and liqueur and simmer just until the mixture is hot. Remove it from the heat, add the plums, and let them stand for 5 minutes. (Do not add them earlier or they will get too soft.)
4 To serve, return the pot to very low heat to keep the ponche warm. Ladle the ponche into mugs, adding the fruits to each serving. Serve it hot.
NOTES You can substitute ⅓ cup (75 ml) tamarind concentrate for the tamarind pulp. If neither is available, use ½ cup (120 ml) fresh lemon juice.
Fresh or frozen sugarcane is available at Latin groceries and large supermarkets, and is often sold peeled. If the thick skin needs to be removed, use a large knife to chop the cane into manageable 4-inch (10-cm) lengths. Stand the pieces on end to cut away the peel. Cut the sugarcane lengthwise into thick sticks.
Tejocote is a small round stone fruit (that is, with a large seed in the center). It is sold fresh at Mexican groceries around Christmastime, and in jars year-round. Kumquats or crabapples are good substitutes because they are similar in size to tejocotes. You may want to alert your guests that the tejocote seeds can be spit out.
Pineapple guava, about the size of a large lime, is the most widely available variety around Christmastime. If it is not available, substitute about one-quarter of a pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into bite-size pieces.
Goya, the leading Latin food product manufacturer, sells a nonalcoholic ponche in a jar with enough tejocotes, sugarcane sticks, and guavas for this recipe. Drain and discard the liquid-you really just want the fruit. Leave the tejocotes intact, but cut the sticks and guavas as needed to yield twelve pieces of each.
SANGRITA
Sangrita (meaning "little blood") is not actually a cocktail, but an accompaniment to a shot of tequila-you follow a sip of one with a sip of the other, allowing the flavors to mingle in your mouth. The most popular version is from Mexico City and made with tomato juice, but there are variations that get their red color from grenadine. I prefer this one, with three kinds of fruit juice (or four, if you count the tomato as a fruit… which it really is).
SERVES 12; MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (480 ML)
1 cup (240 ml) canned tomato juice
½ cup (120 ml) fresh lime juice
¼ cup (60 ml) fresh orange juice
3 tablespoons fresh grapefruit juice
2 tablespoons ketchup
2 tablespoons chopped red onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon agave nectar
1 teaspoon red or yellow habanero hot sauce
1 tablespoon pure ground ancho chile
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Tequila, for serving
1 Purée the sangrita ingredients in a blender. Transfer them to a pitcher, cover, and refrigerate until they are chilled, for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.
2 Pour a shot of tequila and a shot of the chilled sangrita into separate glasses. Sip the tequila, and follow it immediately with a sip of the sangrita.
MEZCAL
Mezcal is similar to tequila in that it is also made from agave, a plant native to Mexico.
However, tequila production is restricted to the blue agave, whereas there are around thirty other kinds of agave (often called maguey by mezcal producers to differentiate it from the blue variety) that can be distilled into mezcal. The agave is roasted in open pits, giving the final product a smokiness that is often compared to Scotch. Making mezcal is a hands-on, rustic process, so the best ones are quite expensive. Cheap mezcal will sometimes be bottled with a worm, a tradition that supposedly proves that the alcohol content is high enough to preserve the darned thing.
Also like tequila, there are young (joven), rested (reposado), and mature (añejo) types of mezcal. For cocktails, use a moderately priced joven because you will be mixing it with other ingredients. Aged mezcals are best slowly sipped and savored on their own. Espadín is the most commonly used maguey variety to make mezcal, and you will see it listed on the label of many reliable brands.
THE RED
&
SMOKEY
Consider stirring up a big pitcher of this bright red cocktail for a party. You'll get the best results with the complex flavors of an arroqueño mezcal, which is distilled from a rare type of agave.
SERVES 1
5 lime wedges (5/6 lime)
11/2 ounces (45 ml) brewed hibiscus tea (see Notes)
11/2 ounces (45 ml) mezcal joven, preferable arroqueño (see Notes)
1/2 ounce (15 ml) triple sec
2 ounces (60 ml) club soda, as needed
Muddle 4 of the lime wedges and the hibiscus together in a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice, add the mezcal and triple sec, and stir them well. Top off the drink with the club soda. Garnish it with the remaining lime wedge.
NOTES Steep 1 scant tablespoon dried hibiscus blossoms (jamaica) with ¼ cup (60 ml) boiling water for 3 minutes. Strain the tea and let it cool completely.
Arroqueño mezcal indicates a mezcal made from agave americana, and it has a somewhat bolder flavor profile than other jovens.
OCHO
LEGUAS
This cocktail is a kind of tequila Caipirinha, but the mezcal gives it heft.
SERVES 1
6 fresh mint leaves
1 ounce (30 ml) Simple Syrup (this page)
1 ounce (30 ml) mezcal joven
1 ounce (30 ml) 100% agave tequila blanco
2 ounces (60 ml) club soda, as needed
1 lime wedge
Muddle the mint leaves and syrup together in a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice and add the mezcal and tequila. Stir them well. Top off the cocktail with the club soda. Garnish it with the lime wedge.
AGUAMIEL
Ginger liqueur adds a delicious spiciness to this "up" drink.
SERVES 1
1 ounce (30 ml) 100% agave tequila añejo
½ ounce (15 ml) mezcal joven
½ ounce (15 ml) ginger liqueur
½ ounce (15 ml) agave nectar
½ ounce (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 lemon slice
Fill a martini glass with ice. Pour the tequila, mezcal, ginger liqueur, agave, and lemon juice into an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Cover and shake them well. Discard the ice from the glass and strain the cocktail into it. Perch the lemon slice on the glass rim.
RUM
Rum, or actually its source-sugarcane-plays an enormous role in Latin American history, especially in the Caribbean.
Fortunes were made and lost in the sugar fields of Cuba, Puerto Rico, and other subtropical countries, where millions of people literally slaved to harvest sugarcane. Rum can be distilled from either molasses (the liquid by-product of sugar production) or directly from sugarcane juice.
In broad terms, three unique styles of rum developed according to the language spoken in the various locales. Rum from the places where Spanish is spoken tends to be light-bodied. British-style rums are more viscous, with a flavor and color that belie their molasses base. The French islands are renowned for their rhum agricole (agricultural rum), made artisan style with sugarcane juice. The vast majority of rum sold in the United States is made in large Puerto Rican distilleries, which must be aged in oak for one year before bottling.
Rum evaporates during aging, deepening its flavor and picking up color from the wood. Therefore, older rum is darker and more viscous than young rum. For making cocktails, a lighter rum is often used to marry well with other ingredients without leaving a strong rum flavor. Aficionados of small-batch rums enjoy these spirits as sipping liquors. The main styles of rum are:
Silver: Also called white or light rum, this rum is aged for one year, then filtered to remove the color. While it is not entirely flavorless, its neutral flavor plays well with other ingredients.
Gold: You will also find this kind of rum labeled as "amber" or "pale." Most of these get their golden color from wood aging, but sometimes the hue is acquired by adding caramel.
Dark: A bit darker than gold rum, this rum has been wood-aged for two or more years. Añjeo rum has been aged for up to three years.
Black Rum: The wood barrels used to age this molasses-based rum (not to be confused with "dark rum") have been heavily charred, so the end product is very dark and full-flavored.
Other styles of rum include the aforementioned rhum agricole, vintage rum (usually estate bottled), overproof rum, and flavored rum (including spiced rum).
MOJITO
This simple little drink, with muddled mint and lime, has given rum a newfound popularity.
SERVES 1
4 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
6 fresh mint leaves
1 ounce (30 ml) Simple Syrup (this page)
1½ ounces (45 ml) light (silver) rum
Splash of Homemade Sweet and Sour Mix (this page)
3 ounces (90 ml) chilled club soda, as needed
Muddle together 3 of the lime wedges, the mint, and syrup in a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice and add the rum and sweet and sour mix. Stir them well. Top off the cocktail with the club soda. Garnish it with the remaining lime wedge.
MOJITO CUZCO
Until recently, cucumber was not used as a cocktail ingredient. Now it lends its refreshing flavor to drinks like this one.
SERVES 1
3 lime wedges (½ lime)
6 fresh mint leaves
Two ¼-inch (3-mm) slices peeled seedless (English) or standard cucumber
1½ ounces (45 ml) light (silver) rum
1 ounce (30 ml) melon liqueur, such as Midori
Splash of Homemade Sweet and Sour Mix (this page)
2 ounces (60 ml) chilled club soda, as needed
Muddle together 2 of the lime wedges, the mint, and cucumbers in a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice and add the rum, melon liqueur, and sweet and sour mix. Stir them well. Top off the cocktail with the club soda. Garnish it with the remaining lime wedge.
MOJITO COCONUT
This libation is a grown-up's piña colada (not that there is anything wrong with a regular colada, but it is a cocktail on its way to becoming a milkshake). I recommend Malibu Red (a combination of rum, tequila, and coconut flavor), which gives the drink a bit more attitude than standard coconut rum.
SERVES 1
4 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
6 fresh mint leaves
1 teaspoon superfine (bartenders') sugar
2 ounces (60 ml) coconut-flavored rum, preferably Malibu Red
1½ ounces (45 ml) Homemade Sweet and Sour Mix (this page)
2 ounces (60 ml) chilled club soda, as needed
Muddle together 3 of the lime wedges, the mint, and sugar in a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice and add the rum and sweet and sour mix. Stir them well, making sure to dissolve the sugar. Top off the cocktail with the club soda. Garnish it with the remaining lime wedge.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Melocotón; Pisco Sour; Mojito Cuzco; and Perfect Paloma
PISCO
Pisco, a clear grape spirit made from wine, is similar to Italian grappa.
Peru, Chile, and Bolivia all make a version, but aficionados give Peruvian pisco the edge. (Chilean piscos are often oaked, giving them a harsher taste that can conflict with the other ingredients in a cocktail.) Long a part of America's cocktail culture, pisco was originally shipped from Latin America north to the miners of Gold Rush San Francisco. As other liquors became more available, pisco was squeezed out. It is now back in fashion with a vengeance.
Peruvian pisco is bottled at distilled strength, making it a particularly potent libation; Chilean pisco can be cut with water to reduce its alcoholic content-not necessarily a bad thing.
There are four types of Peruvian pisco:
Puro: "Pure" pisco is distilled from one of four nonaromatic black-skinned grapes-Molla, Negra Corriente, Quebranta (the most common), and Ubina. This is the version that you are most likely to find in the average American liquor store, and a good choice for making cocktails.
Aromático: Albilia, Italia, Muscatel, and Torontel (Torrontes) are the four grapes that can be used to make "aromatic" pisco.
Acholado: While pure and aromatic piscos are made from a single grape, acholado can be a blend of one nonaromatic and two or more of the aromatic varieties.
Mosto verde: The other pisco types are distilled from wine, but this variety is created from the fermented "green must" leftover from crushed grapes.
PISCO SOUR
An egg white gives this famous old-school cocktail its distinctive foamy cap. The egg white will mix better with the other ingredients if it is shaken without ice, and then shaken again for chilling. Because the white will be consumed raw, use a pasteurized egg (available at natural food stores and most supermarkets), or at least an organic one. (See photo on this page.)
SERVES 2
3 ounces (90 ml) puro pisco
3 ounces (90 ml) lime juice
1 ounce (30 ml) Simple Syrup (this page)
1 large egg white, preferably pasteurized
4 to 6 dashes orange-flavored aromatic bitters
Fill two martini glasses with ice. Pour the pisco, lime juice, syrup, and egg white into a cocktail shaker. Cover and shake them well to fully incorporate the egg white. Add ice, cover, and shake them again. Discard the ice in the glasses and strain the drink into them. Top each drink with 2 to 3 dashes of bitters.
PISCO
ELEVATION
Elderflower liqueur and lychees smooth out pisco's rough edges in this fragrant cocktail. Late spring is the season for domestic lychees. You might find imported lychees in the winter; it's a Chinese fruit that looks like a big, tough raspberry. Out of season, just use canned lychees, available at Asian markets.
SERVES 1
3 peeled fresh or canned lychees
1½ ounces (45 ml) puro pisco
1 ounce (30 ml) elderflower liqueur, such as St. Germain
1 orange zest twist
Fill a martini glass with ice. Muddle the lychees in a mixer glass. Add the pisco, elderflower liqueur, and ice. Cover and shake them well. Discard the ice in the glass and strain the drink into it. Garnish it with the orange twist.
PERUVIAN
NEGRONI
A Negroni is often made with vodka or gin, but pisco matches equally well with the bitter Campari and red vermouth.
SERVES 1
1 ounce (30 ml) puro pisco
1 ounce (30 ml) Campari
1 ounce (30 ml) sweet vermouth
1 orange slice
1 imported cocktail cherry, such as Luxardo brand
Pour the pisco, Campari, and vermouth into an ice-filled rocks or Old Fashioned glass. Stir them well. Garnish the drink with the orange slice and cherry.
CACHAÇA
Cachaça is basically Brazilian silver rum, but there are major differences.
First, cachaça is always made with fresh sugarcane juice, while rum can be made with fermented juice or molasses. Rum is aged in wood for at least one year, but cachaça is usually bottled without aging. This gives it a fiery flavor that frankly needs to be tempered with ingredients like fruit juice and sugar. However, fine wood-aged gold and dark styles (which make for darker and smoother flavors) are showing up in liquor stores, and these should be drunk straight.
TRADITIONAL
CAIPIRINHA
Here it is-the classic Brazilian cocktail that put cachaça on the map.
SERVES 1
4 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
1 ounce (30 ml) Simple Syrup (this page)
1½ ounces (45 ml) cachaça
3 ounces (90 ml) club soda, as needed
Muddle together 3 of the lime wedges with the syrup in a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice and add the cachaça. Stir it well. Top it off with the club soda. Garnish the drink with the remaining lime wedge.
STRAWBERRY-BASIL
CAIPIRINHA
Basil is a member of the mint family, so it is not a stretch at all to add it to strawberries in this summertime cocktail. Try this once and you will be a fan.
SERVES 1
4 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
2 fresh strawberries, hulled
2 large fresh basil leaves
1 ounce (30 ml) Simple Syrup (this page)
1½ ounces (45 ml) cachaça
Muddle together 3 of the lime wedges with the strawberries, basil, and syrup in a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice and add the cachaça. Stir it well. Garnish the drink with the remaining lime wedge.
PEREIRA
MARTINI
When autumn pears are abundant at the market, make this spice-scented, slightly sweet member of the martini family. Be sure to use very ripe pears.
SERVES 1
1 lemon wedge
Ground cinnamon in a jar with a sprinkle top, for rimming the glass
1½ ounces (45 ml) cachaça
1 ounce (30 ml) fresh pear purée (see Note)
½ ounce (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
Freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish
1 Fill a martini glass with ice. Lightly rub the lemon wedge around the outside rim of the glass to moisten it. Juice the lemon wedge and reserve the juice for the cocktail. Discard the ice and sprinkle the cinnamon around the glass rim, making sure not to get any in the glass.
2 Pour the cachaça, pear purée, and lemon juice into an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Close and shake it well. Strain the drink into the prepared glass. Top it with a few gratings of nutmeg.
NOTE To make the purée, choose a juicy variety of pear, such as Comice or Bartlett. Peel, core, and quarter the pear and purée it in a blender. One ounce of purée equals 2 tablespoons.
BEER
Beer is one of the most refreshing beverages you can pour down your throat on a hot day.
In the Spanish-speaking world, steamy weather is a fact of life in many places, so beer is an indispensable thirst-quencher. Also, the grains used to make beer are more easily grown in many locations than temperamental grapes, so in some places, like Mexico, the drinking culture is beer-centric rather than wine-centric. Effervescent and malty, beer can also be a fine mixer for cocktails, as the following drinks show.
MICHELADA
A beer variation on the Bloody Mary theme, this is sometimes served in a salt-rimmed glass, but I can do without it.
SERVES 1
4 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
1 ounce (30 ml) Bloody Maria Mix (this page)
½ ounce (15 ml) Simple Syrup (this page)
One 12-ounce (360-ml) bottle chilled lager beer
Fill a pint beer mug with ice and let it sit for a few minutes, then discard the ice and quickly dry the mug. Squeeze 3 of the limes into the mug and discard the rinds. Add the Bloody Mary mix and syrup and stir them well. Slowly pour in the beer and stir it gently to combine. Garnish the drink with the remaining lime wedge.
REVELACIÓN
The "revelation" here is the surprisingly good combination of beer and gin.
SERVES 1
1 lemon wedge (1/6 lemon)
Kosher salt, for the glass
11/2 ounces (45 ml) off-dry gin, such as Green Hat or Hayman's Old Tom (see Note)
3/4 ounce (25 ml) fresh lemon juice
1/2 ounce (15 ml) agave nectar
One 12-ounce (360-ml) bottle chilled lager beer, as needed
1 lemon zest twist
1 Chill a pint beer mug in the freezer or refrigerator. (Or fill the mug with ice, let it sit for a few minutes, then discard the ice and quickly dry the mug.) Lightly rub the lemon wedge around the outside rim of the mug to moisten it; reserve the lemon wedge. Pour a few tablespoons of salt into a saucer. Roll the rim of the glass in the salt and shake off the excess, being sure not to get any inside the glass. Save the remaining salt for another use.
2 Muddle together the lemon wedge, gin, lemon juice, and agave in the mug. Add ice. Top it off with the beer and stir it gently to combine. Garnish the drink with the lemon twist.
NOTE Gin is made in a number of styles. London dry gin is the most popular in America, but other varieties are showing up more often. (Plymouth is another dry British style, and Dutch genever is heavier in body and completely different from United Kingdom brands.) For this drink, an off-dry gin, made according to an old, slightly sweet recipe, is best. Green Hat is a domestic gin from Washington, D.C., and we use it in our restaurants in that city. Otherwise, an Old Tom gin, such as one from Hayman's or Ransom, works well.
LEMON LAGER
On a hot day, it will be difficult not to drink this in gulps. Slow down and savor each tangy sip.
SERVES 1
3 lemon wedges (½ lemon)
½ ounce (15 ml) Simple Syrup (this page)
½ ounce (15 ml) elderflower liqueur, such as St. Germain
One 12-ounce (360-ml) bottle chilled lager beer
Fill a pint beer mug with ice and let it sit for a few minutes, then discard the ice and quickly dry the mug. Muddle together 2 of the lemon wedges with the syrup and elderflower liqueur in the mug. Slowly pour in the beer and stir it gently to combine. Garnish the drink with the remaining lemon wedge.
BLOOD ORANGE
CHILEDA
This is another refreshing beer beverage that goes down a little too easily. The blood orange liqueur gives the drink a darker color, but standard orange liqueur will do.
SERVES 1
1 lime wedge
Kosher salt, for the glass
½ ounce (15 ml) fresh lime juice
¼ ounce (7 ml) orange-flavored liqueur, preferably Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur (see Note)
One 12-ounce (360-ml) bottle chilled lager beer, as needed
1 Fill a pint beer mug with ice and let it sit for a few minutes, then discard the ice and quickly dry the mug. Lightly rub the lime around the outside rim of the mug to moisten it; reserve the lime wedge to use as garnish. Pour a few tablespoons of salt into a saucer. Roll the rim of the glass in the salt and shake off the excess, being sure not to get any salt into the glass. Save the remaining salt for another use.
2 Stir the lime juice and blood orange liqueur together in the mug. Add ice and slowly pour in the beer. Stir it gently to combine. Garnish the drink with the reserved lime wedge.
NOTE Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur is made in Sicily with blood oranges, lemon, and a neutral spirit. Most other orange liqueurs have a brandy or Cognac base. You can substitute Cointreau, but Solerno has a deeper, more complex flavor.
NONALCOHOLIC
BEVERAGES
Nonalcoholic beverages, just like cocktails, are having a resurgence, as it has (finally) become obvious that nondrinkers deserve to sip something more interesting than club soda.
At our restaurants, we serve many great fruit-based beverages along the lines of aguas frescas, refreshing blends of fruit purée and water that are sold from huge jars at every Mexican mercado. The following drinks are great for serving to designated drivers or others who aren't drinking alcoholic beverages-and kids, of course. They are especially thirst-quenching on hot days, and can be spiked-or not-with tequila, rum, pisco, or cachaça. (Mezcal is a bit too strong and smoky for these libations.)
HORCHATA
This milky drink is a popular kids' beverage in Mexico. It may remind you of eggnog without the eggs. It must be refrigerated for at least twelve hours before serving, so plan ahead. Don't be surprised if, like so many Mexican moms, you get in the horchata habit of having a pitcher in the refrigerator at all times. (It is also wonderful as a cocktail with a shot of rum, not unlike a White Russian.)
SERVES 4
1 (14-ounce/390-g) can sweetened condensed milk
1 (12-ounce/335-g) can evaporated milk
2 tablespoons raw long-grain rice
2 tablespoons almond flour (also called almond meal)
4 (3-inch/7.5-cm) cinnamon sticks
Ground cinnamon, for garnish
1 Whisk the condensed milk, evaporated milk, and ⅔ cup (165 ml) water together in a pitcher, making sure to completely combine the two canned milks. Add the rice and almond flour and whisk again. Add the cinnamon sticks, cover, and refrigerate for at least 12 and up to 24 hours.
2 Strain into a bowl, pressing hard on the solids. Discard the solids. Return the milk mixture to the pitcher. Divide among four tall ice-filled glasses and sprinkle each with ground cinnamon.
FRESCO
Ginger, mint, apple juice, and vanilla combine to make this a pretty perfect thirst quencher.
SERVES 1
5 lime wedges (⅔ lime)
6 fresh mint leaves
Four (⅛-inch/3-mm) slices unpeeled fresh ginger
3 tablespoons apple juice
2 teaspoons vanilla-flavored beverage syrup or 2 teaspoons Simple Syrup (this page) and ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 (12-ounce) can ginger ale, as needed
Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish
Crush the lime wedges, mint leaves, and 3 slices of the ginger in a tall glass with a muddler. Add the apple juice and vanilla syrup and stir. Fill the glass with ice. Add enough ginger ale to fill the glass and stir gently. Garnish with the mint spring and remaining ginger slice and serve.
ROSA COLADA
This is a pink version of a piña colada with both strawberry purée and cranberry juices. You could add an ounce or two of silver rum to the glasses of those who partake of alcohol.
SERVES 1
6 strawberries, hulled and sliced
2 tablespoons cream of coconut (not coconut milk)
1 cup (5 ounces/140 g) ice cubes
½ cup (120 ml) cranberry juice
1 strawberry, for garnish
Purée the sliced strawberries and cream of coconut together in a blender. Add the ice cubes and cranberry juice and process into a slush. Taste, and if the strawberries aren't sweet enough, add the agave and process again. Pour into a tall glass, garnish with the basil sprig, and serve.
STRAWBERRY & BASIL
AGUA FRESCA
Strawberries and basil make a very fragrant beverage, just the thing for summer entertaining when both of them are in season. You'll need a strong blender for crushing the ice.
SERVES 1
7 fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
2 large basil leaves
1 cup (5 ounces/140 g) ice cubes
2 tablespoons agave nectar (optional)
1 fresh basil sprig, for garnish
Process the strawberries, basil leaves, ¼ cup (60 ml) water, and the ice cubes into a slush. Taste, and if the strawberries aren't sweet enough, add the agave and process again. Pour into a tall glass, garnish with the basil sprig, and serve.
SANGRÍA
Wines from Pan-Latin countries, such as Chile and Spain, are finally getting the recognition and respect they deserve. Many of these wines are very fine, and I would never dream of mixing them with fruit and juices.
That being said, sangría is my favorite party drink. Most of us have had red sangría, but only too often, it is tossed together without much thought. The two versions that I recommend (one with red wine, and the other with white) are carefully crafted with just the right amounts of fruit, wine, additional liquor, and sweetener. Both use ginger ale, and I suggest that you buy a top-quality small-batch brand for its superior flavor.
SANGRÍA
TINTA ROJA
Sangría, fruity but not too sweet, is the ultimate summertime party drink. I make it by the gallon to serve at my backyard barbecues. Start the night before so the fruit has time to flavor the wine.
SERVES 8
One 750-ml bottle Spanish red wine, preferably Tempranillo
1 sweet apple, such as Red Delicious or McIntosh, peeled, cored, and cut into ¾-inch (2-cm) dice
1 ripe mango, pitted, peeled, and cut into ¾-inch (2-cm) dice
⅔ cup (165 ml) apple juice, preferably fresh
⅔ cup (75 ml) fresh or thawed frozen mango purée
⅔ cup (75 ml) brandy
⅔ cup (75 ml) vanilla liqueur, such as Licor 43, or Simple Syrup (this page) plus 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
⅔ cup (75 ml) triple sec
Ginger ale, for serving
8 orange slices
1 One day before serving, mix the wine, apple, mango, apple juice, mango purée, brandy, vanilla liqueur, and triple sec together in a large nonreactive bowl. Cover and refrigerate them for at least 12 and up to 24 hours.
2 Strain the mixture into a pitcher, reserving the diced apple and mango. For each serving, add a spoonful of the diced apple and mango to a highball glass. Add ice. Pour in ⅔ cup (165 ml) of the wine mixture, and top off the glass with ginger ale. Stir it gently to combine and garnish the glass with an orange slice. Serve it immediately.
MELOCOTÓN
Here is a peach-flavored sangria made with white wine that is pretty perfect for that sweet time in the summer when local peaches are at their best.
SERVES 8
One 750-ml bottle Sauvignon Blanc
2 ripe peaches, cut into ¾-inch (2-cm) dice
⅔ cup (165 ml) fresh orange juice
⅔ cup (75 ml) triple sec
⅔ cup (75 ml) peach schnapps
⅔ cup (75 ml) Simple Syrup (this page)
⅔ cup (75 ml) fresh lime juice
Ten 3-inch (7.5-cm) cinnamon sticks
Ginger ale, for serving
1 One day before serving, mix the wine, peaches, orange juice, triple sec, schnapps, simple syrup, lime juice, and two of the cinnamon sticks together in a large nonreactive bowl. Cover and refrigerate them for at least 12 and up to 24 hours.
2 Strain the mixture into a pitcher, reserving the diced peaches. Discard the cinnamon sticks. For each serving, add a spoonful of the diced peaches to a highball glass. Add ice. Pour in about ⅔ cup (165 ml) of the wine mixture, and top off the glass with ginger ale. Stir it gently to combine and garnish the drink with a cinnamon stick. Serve it immediately.
聚合中文网 阅读好时光 www.juhezwn.com
小提示:漏章、缺章、错字过多试试导航栏右上角的源