As she was packing her bags to travel from Saint-Étienne to Avignon, at the end of June 1844, an unpleasant event obliged Flora to change her plans. A progressive Lyon newspaper, Le Censeur, accused her of being a "secret government agent" sent to the south of France with the mission of "castrating the workers" by preaching pacifism and informing the monarchy about the activities of the revolutionary movement. The page of slander included a boxed editorial by the paper's publisher, a Monsieur Rittiez, exhorting workers to redouble their vigilance so as not to be deceived by "the pharisaic trickery of false apostles." The committee of the Lyon Workers' Union asked her to come in person to refute these falsehoods.
Flora, incensed by the indignity, did so at once. In Lyon she was received by the full committee. Distressed though she was, it was wonderful to see Eléonore Blanc, who trembled in her arms, her face bathed in tears. At the inn, Flora read and reread the outrageous accusations. According to Le Censeur, her duplicity had been discovered when the objects confiscated at the Hôtel de Milan by Monsieur Bardoz, Lyon's commissioner, reached the hands of the King's Counsel; among them was a copy of a report sent by Flora Tristán to the authorities about her meetings with the leaders of the workers' movement.
So shocked and angry was she that she couldn't sleep all night, despite the orange-blossom water that Eléonore Blanc made her sip in bed. The next morning, after a quick cup of tea, she stationed herself at the door of Le Censeur, demanding to see the publisher. She asked her friends on the committee to let her go alone, because if Monsieur Rittiez saw that she had come accompanied, he would surely refuse to meet with her.
Monsieur Rittiez, whom Flora had met in passing on her previous stay in Lyon, made her wait outside for nearly two hours. Out of prudence or cowardice, he received her in the company of seven writers, who remained in the crowded and smoky room throughout the interview, supporting their employer in such servile fashion that Flora felt ill. And these poor wretches were the pens of Lyon's progressive paper!
Did Rittiez, diligent former pupil of the Jesuits, who wriggled like an eel out of answering Flora's questions about the lying reports, believe that he could intimidate her by surrounding himself with thugs? She had the urge to tell him straight away that eleven years ago, when she was an inexperienced young woman of thirty, she had spent five months on a ship alone with nineteen men, without being discomfited in the least by so many trouser wearers. She was hardly intimidated now by seven cowardly, calumny-slinging intellectual lackeys; rather, their presence filled her with fighting spirit.
Instead of responding to her protests ("From where does the monstrous lie come that I am a spy?" "Where is this proof allegedly found among my papers by Commissioner Bardoz, when it appears nowhere on the list of everything that was confiscated from me and later returned by the police—a list signed by the commissioner himself?" "How dare your newspaper cast such aspersions on someone who devotes all her energies to fighting for the workers?"), Monsieur Rittiez just kept repeating the same thing over and over again like a parrot, behaving as if he were in Parliament. "I don't publish slander. I simply take issue with your ideas, because pacifism disarms the workers and delays the revolution, madame." And every so often he attacked her with another lie, saying that she was a Fourierist, and as such preached a collaboration between masters and workers that only served the interests of capital.
You would later remember those two hours of absurd debate, Florita—a dialogue of the deaf—as the most depressing episode of your entire tour of France. It was very simple. Rittiez and his entourage of hacks hadn't been taken unawares or tricked; they had concocted the false information, possibly out of envy, because of the success you had had in Lyon, or because discrediting you by accusing you of being a spy was the best way to vanquish your revolutionary ideas, with which they disagreed. Or did they hate you because you were a woman? They couldn't stand to see a woman set out to save mankind, which seemed to them an exclusively male endeavor. And the perpetrators of such villainy called themselves progressives, republicans, revolutionaries. In two hours of argument, Flora never managed to get Monsieur Rittiez to tell her where the specious information spread by Le Censeur had come from. She left in disgust, slamming the door behind her and threatening to bring a libel suit against the newspaper. But the Workers' Union committee dissuaded her: Le Censeur, newspaper of the opposition to the monarchy, had prestige, and a legal suit against it would hurt the popular movement. Better to counter the false information with public denials.
That was what she did in the following days, giving talks in workshops and meeting halls, and visiting all the other newspapers until two, at least, published letters of rectification. Eléonore didn't leave her side for an instant, showing such love and devotion that Flora was deeply moved. How lucky she had been to meet her, and how fortunate it was that the Lyon Workers' Union could count on such an idealistic and determined young woman.
The uproar and unpleasantness did their part to weaken her physically. From the second day of her return to Lyon, she began to feel feverish, her stomach queasy and her body racked by shivers that tired her enormously. But she refused to slacken her frenetic pace. Wherever she went, she accused Rittiez of sowing discord in the popular movement from his paper.
At night, the fever kept her awake. It was strange. You felt just as you had eleven years ago, in your five months aboard the Mexicain, the ship commanded by Captain Zacharie Chabrié on which you crossed the Atlantic. Rounding Cape Horn and sailing up the coast toward Peru, toward the meeting with your father's family, you hoped that not only would they welcome you with open arms and give you a new home, they would turn over to you a fifth part of your father's fortune. Then all your money problems would be solved, you would no longer be poor, you could educate your children and lead a peaceful life free of want and risk, and never again fear falling into the clutches of André Chazal. Of those five months at sea—in the tiny cabin in which you could barely stretch your arms; surrounded by nineteen men (sailors, officers, the cook, the cabin boy, the ship's owner, and four passengers)—you remembered your terrible seasickness. Like the stomachaches you were having now in Lyon, it sapped your energy, equilibrium, and ability to think logically, and plunged you into confusion and doubt. You were living now as you had then, certain that at any moment you might collapse, incapable of standing upright, of moving in step with the irregular swaying of the floor beneath your feet.
Zacharie Chabrié behaved like the perfect Breton gentleman Flora had guessed him to be the night they had met at that Paris boardinghouse. He waited on her assiduously, himself bringing to her cabin the herbal teas that were supposedly a remedy for nausea and ordering the construction of a small bunk on the deck, next to the chicken coops and crates of vegetables, because in the fresh air Flora's seasickness subsided and she had brief periods of relief. It wasn't only Captain Chabrié who showered her with attentions. The second in command—Louis Briet, another Breton—did too, and even the ship's owner, Alfred David, who pretended to be a cynic and issued fierce denunciations of the human species and predictions of disaster, softened in her presence and became amiable and obliging. Everyone on the ship, from the captain to the cabin boy, from the Peruvian passengers to the Provençal cook, did all they could to make the crossing pleasant, despite the agonies of seasickness she suffered.
But nothing happened as you expected it to on that journey, Florita. You weren't sorry to have made it—on the contrary, it was as a result of that experience that you were what you were now, a fighter for the welfare of humanity. Your eyes were opened to a world where cruelty, evil, poverty, and suffering were infinitely worse than anything you could have imagined—you, who, because of your little marital troubles, believed you had known the depths of misfortune.
After twenty-five days at sea, the Mexicain dropped anchor in the bay of La Praia, off the island of Cape Verde, to caulk the ship's bilge, which had sprung a few leaks. And you, Florita, who had been so happy to hear that you would spend a few days on solid ground, not feeling everything moving under your feet, discovered that being in La Praia was even worse than being seasick. In that city of four thousand inhabitants, you saw the true, horrifying, indescribable face of an institution that you had only heard talked about before: slavery. You would always remember your first sight of La Praia, which the newly arrived passengers of the Mexicain reached by crossing a black, rocky stretch of ground and scaling the tall cliff along which the city spread. There, in the small main square, two sweaty soldiers, swearing between blows, flogged two naked black men tied to a post, amid swarms of flies, under a molten sun. The cries of the men and the sight of the two bloody backs stopped you in your tracks. You grasped Alfred David's arm.
"What are they doing?"
"Flogging two slaves who have stolen something, or worse," the ship's owner explained, with a gesture of indifference. "The masters set the punishment and pay the soldiers to carry it out. Flogging in this heat is terrible. Poor slavers!"
All the white and mixed-blood residents of La Praia earned their living hunting, buying, and selling slaves. The slave trade was the only business of the Portuguese colony, where everything that Flora saw and heard, and all the people she met in the ten days it took to caulk the Mexicain's hold, aroused pity, fright, rage, and horror in her. You would never forget the widow Watrin, a tall, portly matron the color of milky coffee, whose house was full of engravings of her hero Napoleon and the generals of the Empire. After offering you pastries and a cup of chocolate, she proudly showed you the most original object on display in her salon: two black fetuses, floating in fish bowls full of formaldehyde.
The principal landowner of the island, Monsieur Tappe, was a Frenchman from Bayonne, a former seminarian who, sent by his order to the African missions to win converts, had left the Church to devote himself to the less spiritual but more profitable work of selling slaves. He was a stout, red-faced man in his fifties, with a bull neck, prominent veins, and lewd eyes, which settled so brazenly on Flora's breasts and neck that she nearly slapped him. She held back, though, listening in fascination as Monsieur Tappe railed against the cursed English, who with their foolish puritan prejudices against the slave trade were driving the slave traders to ruin. Tappe came to eat with them on the Mexicain, bringing jugs of wine and cans of preserved food as gifts. Flora felt sick to her stomach seeing how voraciously the slave driver gobbled mouthfuls of lamb and other roasted meat, between long swallows of wine that made him belch. He presently owned twenty-eight black men, twenty-eight black women, and thirty-seven black children, who "behaved themselves," he said, thanks to "Monsieur Valentin," the whip he kept coiled at his waist. When he was drunk, he confessed that out of fear that his servants would poison him, he had married one of his slaves (fathering three children upon her "who came out as black as coal") and made his wife taste all his food and drink.
Another character who would be forever fixed in Flora's memory was the toothless Captain Brandisco, a Venetian whose schooner was anchored in the bay of La Praia next to the Mexicain. He invited them to dine on his ship, and received them dressed like a comic opera player, in a hat topped with peacock feathers, the boots of a musketeer, tight red velvet trousers, and a shirt of shot silk studded with precious stones. He showed them a chest of glass beads that, he boasted, he bartered for blacks in the villages of Africa. His hatred of the English surpassed even that of the ex-seminarian Tappe. The English had surprised the Venetian at sea with a ship full of slaves, and confiscated his own vessel, his slaves, and everything he had on board, and sent him to prison for two years, where he had contracted the pyorrhea that made him lose his teeth. At dessert, Brandisco tried to sell Flora an alert-looking black boy to be her page. In order to convince her that the boy was healthy, he ordered him to remove his loincloth, and the adolescent immediately uncovered himself, smiling as he displayed his private parts.
Only three times did Flora leave the Mexicain to visit La Praia, and on each visit she saw soldiers from the colonial garrison flogging slaves by order of their masters in the scorchingly hot little square. The spectacle saddened and enraged her so much that she decided not to endure it anymore, and told Chabrié that she would remain on board ship until the day of their departure.
It was the first great lesson of your trip, Florita: the horrors of slavery, supreme injustice in this world of injustices that had to be remedied in order to make the world human. And yet, in Peregrinations of a Pariah—the book, published in 1838, in which you told the story of your journey to Peru—your account of your visit to La Praia included phrases like "the smell of the negro, which defies comparison, making one ill and lingering everywhere" for which you could never be sorry enough. The smell of the negro! How you later lamented that silly, stupid remark, the repetition of a commonplace among Parisian snobs. It wasn't the "smell of the negro" that was repugnant on that island, but the smell of poverty and cruelty, the fate of those Africans whom the European merchants had turned into commodities. Despite everything you had learned about injustice, you were still ignorant when you wrote Peregrinations of a Pariah.
Her last day in Lyon was the busiest of the four. She woke up with severe pains in her stomach, but to Eléonore, who advised her to stay in bed, she replied, "People like me aren't allowed to be sick." Half dragging herself, she went to the meeting that the Workers' Union committee had organized for her in a workshop with thirty tailors and cutters. They were all Icarian communists, and their bible (although many only knew it from hearing it discussed, since they were illiterate) was Travels in Icaria, Étienne Cabet's last book, published in 1840. In it, the old Carbonarist, under the guise of relating the adventures of a fictional English aristocrat, Lord Carisdall, in a fabulous, egalitarian country with no bars, cafés, prostitutes, or beggars—but with public toilets!—illustrated his conception of a future society in which economic equality would be achieved, money and business abolished, and collective property established through progressive taxation of income and inheritance. The tailors and cutters of Lyon were prepared to travel to Africa or America, like Robert Owen, to found Étienne Cabet's perfect society, and were saving to purchase land in the New World. They showed little enthusiasm for the project of a worldwide Workers' Union, which seemed a mediocre alternative when compared to their Icarian paradise, where there would be no poor, no social classes, no idlers, no servants, no private property; where all belongings would be held in common, and the State, "the sovereign Icar," would feed, clothe, educate, and entertain all citizens. By way of farewell, Flora resorted to sarcasm: it was selfish to turn one's back on the rest of the world to flee to a private Eden, and utterly naive to believe word for word what was written in Travels in Icaria, a book that was neither science nor philosophy—no more than a literary fantasy! Who, with the least bit of sense in his head, would take a novel as a book of doctrine and a guide to revolution? And what kind of revolution was it that held the family sacred and preserved the institution of marriage—the buying and selling of women to their husbands?
The bad feeling that she was left with by the tailors was erased at the farewell dinner organized for her by the Workers' Union committee at a weavers' meeting hall. The vast room was filled to overflowing with three hundred workers, who, over the course of the evening, gave Flora several ovations and sang "The Workers' Marseillaise," composed by a cobbler. The speakers said that Le Censeur's slander had served only to strengthen Flora Tristán's cause, and to expose the envy that she awakened in those who had failed. She was so moved by this tribute that, she told them, it was worth being insulted by the Rittiezes of the world if the reward was such a night. This packed hall proved that the Workers' Union was unstoppable.
Eléonore and the rest of the committee members saw her off at the wharf at three in the morning. The twelve hours in the little boat on the Rhône—watching the mountains loom behind the riverbanks and seeing the sun rise over the cypress-covered peaks as they slipped toward Avignon—brought back memories of the crossing from Cape Verde to the coasts of South America in the Mexicain. For four months she never set foot on solid ground, seeing only the sea and the sky and her nineteen companions, convulsed by seasickness day after day in that floating prison. Worst was the crossing of the equator, in torrential rain that buffeted the ship and made it creak and groan as if it were about to come to pieces. Sailors and passengers had to be shackled to the bars and rings on deck so the waves wouldn't sweep them away.
Had the nineteen men on the Mexicain fallen in love with you, Florita? Probably. In any case, it was clear that all of them desired you, and that, in their forced captivity, they were agitated and tormented by being so near a woman with big black eyes, long Andalusian hair, a tiny waist, and gracious ways. You were sure that not only the adolescent cabin boy but also some of the sailors thought of you as they pleasured themselves in private, employing the same filthy methods you had discovered Ismaelillo, the Holy Eunuch, using in Bordeaux. The close quarters and forced deprivation heightened your charms, and they did all desire you, but none was ever disrespectful, and only Captain Zacharie Chabrié formally declared his love for you.
It had happened at La Praia, on one of those afternoons when everyone went ashore except for Flora, who didn't want to see the slaves being flogged. Chabrié stayed behind to keep her company. It was pleasant to talk to the polite Breton in the ship's prow, watching the sun set in a blaze of colors far off on the horizon. The sweltering heat had eased, a cool breeze blew, and the sky was phosphorescent. The frustrated tenor, not yet forty, was slightly stout, but he was so perfectly groomed and exquisitely courteous that at moments he seemed almost handsome. Despite your horror of sex, you couldn't help flirting with him, amused by the emotions you stirred in him when you threw your head back and laughed, or made a witty retort, fluttering your eyelashes, exaggerating the graceful motion of your hands, or extending a leg under your skirt to reveal a glimpse of your slender ankle. Chabrié would flush happily and sometimes, to entertain you, he would intone a ballad or an aria by Rossini, or a Viennese waltz in a strong, melodious voice. But that afternoon, perhaps emboldened by the forgiving dusk, or because you were being more charming than usual, the gentlemanly Breton couldn't restrain himself and, gently taking one of your hands between his, he lifted it to his lips, murmuring, "Forgive my boldness, mademoiselle. But I can wait no longer. I must tell you: I love you."
His long, tremulous declaration of love exuded sincerity and decency, courtesy, good breeding. You listened, taken aback. Did such men exist, then? Gallant, sensitive, considerate men, convinced that women should be treated with kid gloves, as they were in romance novels? The seaman was trembling, so mortified by his forwardness that you took pity on him and, though you did not formally accept his love, allowed him to hope. A serious mistake, Florita. You were impressed by his integrity and the purity of his intentions, and you told him that you would always love him as the best of friends. In an impulse that would bring you trouble later, you took Chabrié's blushing face in your hands and kissed him on the forehead. Crossing himself, the captain of the Mexicain thanked God for making him the happiest man on earth at that moment.
Over the next eleven years, Florita, did you ever regret having toyed with the affections of the good Zacharie Chabrié on that voyage? She asked herself this as the little ship on the Rhône approached Avignon. The answer was no, as it had been before. You didn't regret the games, flirtations, and lies that kept Chabrié on tenterhooks all the way to Valparaíso, believing that he was making progress, that at any moment Mademoiselle Flora Tristán would give him the definitive yes. You manipulated him shamelessly, tantalizing him with your ambiguous responses and those calculated moments of abandon when you permitted him to kiss your hands while he was visiting you in your cabin when the sea was calm for a moment; or when, all at once, in a rush of emotion, you allowed him to rest his head on your knees and stroked his thinning hair, encouraging him to keep telling you his life story: his travels, his dreams of being an opera singer as a young man in Lorient, the disappointment he suffered with the only woman he loved in his life before meeting you. More than once, you even let Chabrié's lips brush yours. Weren't you sorry? No.
The Breton had firmly believed that Flora was an unwed mother ever since she explained the silence she asked him to keep before the day she came aboard ship in Bordeaux. Since he was a committed Catholic, she thought that he would be scandalized to hear that she had had a child out of wedlock. But on the contrary, learning of her "disgrace" prompted Chabrié to propose marriage to her. He would adopt the girl, and they would go and live far from France, where no one could remind Florita of the despicable man who had besmirched her youth: Lima, California, Mexico, even India if she preferred. Although you never loved him, the truth was—wasn't it, Florita?—that sometimes you were tempted by the idea of accepting his offer. They would marry, and settle in a remote and exotic spot where no one knew you or could accuse you of bigamy. There you would lead a quiet, bourgeois life, without fear or hunger, under the protection of an impeccable gentleman. Could you have stood it, Andalusa? Absolutely not.
The Avignon wharf was before them. There would be no more probing of the past. Back to the present. To work! There was no time to waste, Florita. The salvation of mankind permitted no delays.
It wasn't easy to save the workers of Avignon, with whom she could barely communicate, since most of them spoke the regional tongue and hardly any French at all. In Paris, Agricol Perdiguier, that beloved veteran of the workers' associations, had given her some letters of introduction to people in his native city—he was called the Good Man of Avignon—despite being in disagreement with her Workers' Union theories. Thanks to his letters, Flora was able to hold meetings with the textile workers and the laborers on the Avignon-Marseille railroad, who were the best paid in the region (at two francs a day). But the meetings were not very successful because the men were so astoundingly ignorant. Despite being cruelly exploited, they never reflected on their situation but instead sat idle, resigned to their fate. At the meeting with workers from the textile factories, she sold just four copies of The Workers' Union, and at the gathering of railroad workers, ten. The people of Avignon had little desire to wage revolution.
When she learned that the workday in the five textile factories belonging to the richest industrialist of Avignon was twenty hours long, three or four hours longer than usual, she wanted to meet the man responsible. Monsieur Thomas was perfectly happy to see her. He lived in the ancient palace of the Dukes of Crillon, on the rue de la Masse, where he arranged to meet her very early in the morning. Inside the gorgeous building was a jumble of furniture and paintings of different eras and styles, and the office of Monsieur Thomas—a bony man, bristling with nervous energy—was old and dirty, with unpainted walls and stacks of papers, boxes, and files on the floor, among which she could barely move.
"I demand no more of my workers than I demand of myself," he barked at Flora, when she, after explaining her mission, reproached him for giving the workers only four hours to sleep. "I work from dawn until midnight, personally overseeing the operation of my factories. A franc a day is a fortune for those worthless wretches. Don't be fooled by appearances, madame. They live like beasts because they don't know how to save. They spend what they make on alcohol. I, for your information, never touch a drop."
He explained to Flora that he didn't force them to accept his schedule. Anyone who didn't like the system could look for work elsewhere. For him it was no problem; when labor was lacking in Avignon, he imported it from Switzerland. He never had any difficulties with those brutes from the Alps: they worked quietly and gratefully on the wages he paid them. Slow-witted though they were, the Swiss did know how to save.
Without even considering it for an instant, he told Flora that he didn't intend to give her a cent for her Workers' Union project, because although he didn't know much about her ideas, there was something about them that struck him as anarchistic and subversive. For the same reason, he wouldn't buy a single book from her.
"I appreciate your frankness, Monsieur Thomas," said Flora, getting to her feet. "Since we'll never see each other again, allow me to tell you that you are neither a Christian nor a civilized being but a cannibal, a devourer of human flesh. If someday your workers hang you, you will have earned it."
The industrialist burst into laughter, as if Flora had paid him a compliment.
"I like women of character," he said, gleefully. "If I weren't so busy, I'd invite you to spend a weekend at my country estate in the Vaucluse. You and I would get along famously, my lady."
Not all the businessmen of Avignon were so crude. Monsieur Isnard received her courteously, listened to her, pledged twenty-five francs to the Workers' Union, and ordered twenty books to distribute among his "most intelligent" workers. She realized that unlike Lyon, which was a modern city in every sense, Avignon was politically prehistoric. The workers were apathetic, and the ruling classes were either monarchists or supporters of Napoleon, essentially the same thing in different guises. It didn't augur well for her crusade to eliminate injustice, but she still hoped for success.
Flora refused to let herself be demoralized by bad omens, or by the pains in her lower abdomen that tormented her remorselessly all ten days in Avignon. At night at her boardinghouse, The Bear, since it was hot and she couldn't sleep, she opened the window to feel the breeze and see the Provence sky clotted with stars. They were as numerous and brilliant as the stars you watched from the Mexicain on calm nights after the ship crossed the equator, at those dinners on deck at which Captain Chabrié provided the entertainment, singing Tyrolese songs and arias by Rossini, his favorite composer. Alfred David, the ship's owner, drew on his knowledge of astronomy to tell Flora the names of the stars and constellations, with the patience of a good schoolteacher. Captain Chabrié turned pale from jealousy. The Peruvian passengers who diligently helped you practice your Spanish must have made him jealous too; Fermín Miota from Cuzco, his cousin Don Fernando, and the old soldier Don José and his nephew Cesáreo competed to teach you verbs, correct your syntax, and demonstrate for you the phonetic variations of Peruvian Spanish. But although all the attentions the others lavished on you must have bothered Chabrié, he never said so. He was too proper and polite to make scenes. Since you had told him that you would give him your final answer when you arrived in Valparaíso, he was waiting, doubtless praying every night that you would say yes.
After the equatorial heat and a few weeks of dead calm and good weather, in which your seasickness subsided and the voyage became more bearable—you were able to devour the books by Voltaire, Victor Hugo, and Sir Walter Scott that you had brought with you—the Mexicain faced the worst part of its journey: Cape Horn. To round it in July or August was to risk shipwreck at any moment. The gale-force winds seemed to strive to toss the ship against the mountains of ice that loomed to meet them, and snow and hail fell, inundating the cabins and the hold. Day and night they lived half-frozen and in terror. Flora couldn't sleep for fear of drowning in those terrible weeks, and she admired the way the officers and sailors of the Mexicain, Chabrié first among them, managed to be everywhere at once, hoisting or lowering the sails, bailing water, protecting the machines, and repairing damages for twelve or fourteen hours straight without resting or eating. Most of the crew had little warm clothing. The sailors shivered with cold and were often overcome by fever. There were accidents—an engineer slipped from the mizzenmast and broke his leg—and a skin infection causing itching and boils swept half the ship. When they were at last around the cape and the ship began to sail up the coast of South America through the waters of the Pacific, toward Valparaíso, Captain Chabrié held a ceremony in which he gave thanks to God for bringing them through their trials alive. With the exception of Alfred David, who declared himself agnostic, passengers and crewmen hung on the captain's words. Flora did too. Until Cape Horn, you had never felt so close to death, Andalusa.
It was precisely that ceremony and the heartfelt prayers of Zacharie Chabrié that she was thinking of when it occurred to her to spend her few free hours one morning in Avignon on a visit to the old church of Saint-Pierre. The citizens of Avignon considered it one of the jewels of the city. Mass was being held, and Flora sat on a bench at the back of the nave in order not to disturb the faithful. Soon she felt hungry—because of her intestinal troubles, her meals were frugal—and since she had a roll in her pocket, she took it out and began to eat it, discreetly. Her discretion didn't do her much good, because almost immediately she was surrounded by a chorus of furious women with kerchiefs on their heads and missals and rosaries in their hands, who scolded her for disrespecting a sacred place and offending the worshipers during Holy Mass. She explained that it hadn't been her intent to offend anyone, that she had to eat something when she was tired because she had a stomach ailment. Instead of placating them, her explanations irritated them even more, and several of them began to call her "Jew," or "blasphemous Jew," in French and Provençal. Finally she left the church to keep the altercation from getting out of hand.
Was the incident she was subjected to the next day as she entered a weavers' workshop the result of what had happened in the church of Saint-Pierre? Blocking her way menacingly at the door to the workshop was a group of female workers, or the wives and relatives of workers, to judge by the extreme poverty of their attire. Some were barefoot. Flora's attempts to talk to them and discover why they were displeased with her, why they wanted to keep her from entering the workshop to meet with the weavers, were fruitless. The women, gesticulating furiously and shouting in a mix of French and the regional tongue, drowned her out. In the end, she managed more or less to understand them. They were afraid that their husbands would lose their jobs because of her, or that they might even be sent to prison. Some even screamed "Seductress!" and "Whore, whore!" shaking their fists at her. The two men who were accompanying her, disciples of Agricol Perdiguier, advised her to cancel her meeting with the weavers. With tempers at such a pitch, a physical attack couldn't be ruled out. If the police came, Flora would take the blame.
She opted instead to visit the papal palace, now turned into a barracks. She had no interest in the ponderous, ostentatious building, and even less in the paintings by Devéria and Pradier that adorned its massive walls—when one was fighting a war against society's ills there wasn't much time or energy to spare for the appreciation of art—but she was captivated by Madame Gros-Jean, the old doorkeeper who led visitors around the palace that so resembled a prison. Fat, blind in one eye, bundled up in blankets despite the fierce summer heat that made Flora sweat, full of energy, and a ceaseless talker, Madame Gros-Jean was a fanatical monarchist. Her commentary served as a pretext for her rant against the Great Revolution. According to her, all of France's misfortunes had begun in 1789, with those godless demons the Jacobins, especially the monstrous Robespierre. With macabre relish and violent condemnation, she listed the black deeds of the Robespierrian bandit Jourdan, dubbed the Beheader, who personally beheaded eighty-six martyrs in Avignon, and wanted to demolish this very palace. Fortunately, God hadn't let him and instead caused Jourdan to end his days on the guillotine. When Flora, just to see the look on the doorkeeper's face, said suddenly that the Great Revolution was the best thing to happen to France since the time of Saint Louis, and the most important event in human history, Madame Gros-Jean had to clutch a column, struck dumb by shock and indignation.
The last stretch of the Mexicain's trip, along the South American coast, was the least unpleasant. Living up to its name, the Pacific Ocean was always calm, and Flora could read in greater tranquillity, not just her own books but those in the ship's little library, which held authors like Lord Byron and Chateaubriand, whom she read now for the first time. As she did, she took notes, studying diligently and discovering riveting ideas on every page. She also discovered the lapses in her education. But you had not really had an education, had you, Florita? That, not André Chazal, was your life's tragedy. What kind of education did women receive, even today? Would those women at Saint-Pierre have called you Jew, or the women at the weavers' workshop accused you of being a whore, if they had received an education worthy of the name? That was why the obligatory Workers' Union schools for women would revolutionize society.
The Mexicain dropped anchor in the port of Valparaíso 133 days after setting sail from Bordeaux, almost two months behind schedule. Valparaíso was a single long street, running parallel to the black sand beaches that lined the coast, and on it a multifarious crowd bustled, in which all the peoples of the planet seemed to be represented, to judge by the variety of languages that were spoken besides Spanish: English, French, Chinese, German, Russian. The city was the gateway to South America for all the world's merchants, mercenaries, and adventurers who came to make their fortunes on the continent.
Captain Chabrié helped her settle in a boardinghouse run by a Frenchwoman, Madame Aubrit. Her arrival caused a stir in the small port city. Everyone knew her uncle, Don Pío Tristán, the richest and most powerful man in the south of Peru, who for a while had been exiled here in Valparaíso. The news of the arrival of Don Pío's French niece—and she was from Paris, too!—threw the city into tumult. In the three first days, Flora had to resign herself to receiving a constant stream of visitors. The important families wanted to pay their regards to Don Pío's niece, each swearing that they were acquainted with Don Pío; at the same time, they wanted to see with their own eyes whether what legend said of Parisian women—that they were beautiful, elegant, and wanton—was really true.
With their visits came a piece of news that dropped on Flora like a bomb. Her old grandmother, Don Pío's mother, upon whom she had rested her hopes for being recognized and taken in by the family, had died in Arequipa on April 7, 1833, the same day Flora had turned thirty, the same day she had boarded the Mexicain. An inauspicious beginning to your South American adventure, Andalusa. Seeing her turn pale, Chabrié consoled her as best he could. Flora was going to seize the chance to tell him that she was too upset to give an answer to his offer of marriage, but he, guessing what she was about to say, wouldn't let her speak.
"No, Flora, don't say a thing. Not yet. This isn't the moment to discuss such an important matter. Continue your trip; go on to Arequipa to meet your family; settle your affairs. I'll come see you there, and then you can let me know your decision."
When Flora left Avignon for Marseille on July 18, 1844, she was more cheerful than she had been during her first few days in the papal city. She had established a Workers' Union committee of ten members—textile workers, railroad workers, and a baker—and attended two intense secret meetings with the Carbonarists, who, despite having been brutally suppressed, were still active in Provence. Flora explained her ideas to them, congratulated them on their courageous defense of their republican ideals, but managed to exasperate them by saying that it was childish foolishness to form secret societies; these were romantic fantasies as outdated as the Icarian plan to found a paradise in America. The fight had to be joined in the full light of day, in view of the whole world, here and everywhere, so that the ideas of the revolution would reach every worker and peasant—all of those who were exploited, without exception—because only they, by rising up, could transform society. The Carbonarists listened, taken aback. Some harshly reproached her for offering criticism no one had asked for. Others seemed impressed by her audacity. "After your visit, perhaps we Carbonarists will have to revise our prohibition on accepting women into our society," said their leader, Monsieur Proné, as he bade her farewell.
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