WITH SEA BASS, GLAZED SWEET POTATOES & PERUVIAN CORN
Ceviche clásico de robalo con batatas glaseadas y choclo
A ceviche in the classic Peruvian style, this is marinated in a mixture of fish broth (or clam juice) and lime called leche de tigre ("tiger milk"). The Incas actually preserved fish in citrus juice, although today the fish is prepared this way simply because it tastes good.
SERVES 4
FOR THE GLAZED SWEET POTATOES:
1 medium sweet potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch (12-mm) rounds
1 cup (240 ml) fresh orange juice
¼ cup (50 g) sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 star anise
One 1½-inch (4-cm) piece cinnamon stick
FOR THE CEVICHE:
½ cup (120 ml) bottled clam juice
¼ cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice
¼ celery rib, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
½ garlic clove, sliced
1 pound (455 g) skinless sea bass or corvina fillet, cut into ¾-inch (2-cm) chunks
½ small red onion, cut into thin half-moons
1 Fresno or jalapeño chile, seeded and minced
1 cup (130 g) chilled cooked choclo (see Note)
1 Make the sweet potatoes: Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan, being sure the liquid covers the sweet potatoes. Bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the sweet potatoes are almost tender, about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the sweet potatoes cool in the liquid. Drain and cut the sweet potatoes into ½-inch (12-mm) dice. Transfer them to a bowl and cover. (The sweet potatoes can be stored at room temperature for up to 4 hours.)
2 Make the ceviche: Process the clam juice, lime juice, celery, 1 tablespoon of the cilantro, and the garlic in a blender to finely chop the celery. Strain the mixture through a wire sieve into a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate the liquid until chilled, at least 1 hour.
3 Add the sea bass to the juice mixture and mix well. Using a slotted spoon, divide the fish slices among four chilled dinner plates with rims. Add the onion, chile, and remaining 2 tablespoons cilantro to the juice mixture in the bowl and mix again. Divide the juice mixture with the solids over each serving. Garnish with the sweet potatoes and choclo. (Or, if you wish, toss the ingredients together and serve family style.) Serve chilled.
NOTE Choclo is a large-kernel variety of Peruvian corn. You'll find it frozen in Latin markets. Cook the choclo in lightly salted boiling water until it is heated through, about 5 minutes, then drain and rinse it under cold running water. Let it cool before using it for ceviche. If you wish, substitute standard corn kernels, cut from the cob, and boil them for 3 minutes.
STRIPED BASS
TIRADITO
WITH PONZU, APPLE & RADISH
Tiradito de lubina rayada con salsa ponzu, manzana y rábano
A tiradito is the South American version of ceviche, and it often has Asian influences, such as the ponzu in this recipe. It is one of the lightest (and quickest) first courses you'll ever make, yet at the same time, it is one of the most flavorful. There are many good brands for sale, but it is also easy to make your own (this page), and it is worth the minimal effort for this recipe, where it plays such a big role.
SERVES 4
½ Granny Smith apple, peeled
2 large radishes, trimmed
14 ounces (400 g) skinless striped bass, cut on a diagonal into ¼-inch (6-mm) slices
½ cup (120 ml) Ponzu, homemade (this page) or store-bought, chilled
Finely grated zest of 1 large lemon
Sriracha, for serving
1 Just before serving, use a V-slicer or mandoline to cut the apple and radishes into julienne. (You can also use a chef's knife.) Combine them in a small bowl.
2 For each serving, fan the bass on a chilled serving plate with a rim. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the ponzu around, but not on, the bass. Top each with one-quarter of the apple mixture and the grated lemon zest. Serve immediately, with the Sriracha on the side.
MEXICAN-STYLE
MAHI MAHI
CEVICHE
WITH TOMATO, CUCUMBER & CHILE
Ceviche de mahi mahi estilo Mexicano con tomate, pepino y chile
You'll recognize this as the ceviche that most people are familiar with, consisting of raw fish and citrus juice with a spark of chile heat. Mahi mahi is a good choice, or try red snapper, sea bass, or tuna instead. The important thing is that it is sparkling fresh and bought from the best fish market in your area.
SERVES 4
14 ounces (400 g) skinless mahi mahi fillets, cut into ¾-inch (2-cm) chunks
½ cup (120 ml) fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
½ medium white onion, finely chopped
1 ripe plum tomato, seeded and cut into ¼-inch (6-mm) dice
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 serrano or ½ jalapeño chile, seeded and minced
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon pure ground chipotle chile
1 ripe Hass avocado, sliced
Tortilla or yuca chips, for serving
1 Mix the mahi, lime juice, and ½ teaspoon salt in a medium nonreactive bowl. Refrigerate it until the mahi loses its translucent look, about 20 minutes. Stir the onion, tomato, cilantro, and minced chile into the mahi mixture. Season it to taste with black pepper.
2 Mix 1 teaspoon salt and the ground chile together in a small bowl.
3 Divide the mahi mixture and its liquid among four serving bowls. Garnish each serving with avocado slices and sprinkle them with the chipotle salt. Serve the ceviche cold, with the tortilla chips.
AHI TUNA CEVICHE
IN MOLE VERDE BROTH
Ceviche de atún en caldo de mole verde
The adage about eating with our eyes will be confirmed in spades when you serve this high-style dish to your guests. The deep pink tuna against the bright green mole sauce looks beautiful and is matched by the flavor. When you are looking for a real showstopper of a first course, consider this. Make the individual components ahead of time, and the final assembly takes only a few minutes.
SERVES 4
FOR THE ADOBO PEPITAS:
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon pure ground ancho chile
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon fennel seed, ground
Large pinch of cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon canola oil
½ cup (60 g) skinned pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
Kosher salt
FOR THE MOLE VERDE BROTH:
½ cup (120 g) Mole Verde (this page)
½ cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
½ ripe Hass avocado, coarsely chopped
Finely grated zest of 1 lime
¼ cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice
¼ cup (60 ml) rice vinegar
¼ cup (5 g) packed fresh cilantro leaves
2 teaspoons honey
Kosher salt
12 ounces (340 g) sushi-grade ahi tuna, cut into ¾-inch (2-cm) chunks
1 ripe mango, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
½ small red onion, thinly sliced into half-moons
1 jalapeño or serrano chile, seeded and minced
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
Lime wedges, for serving
Hot chili-sesame oil, for serving
Plantain chips, for serving
1 Make the pepitas: Combine the sugar, ancho chile, cumin, fennel, and cayenne in a small bowl. Heat the oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the pepitas and cook, stirring often, until they begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle the pepitas with the sugar mixture and cook, stirring often, just until the spices smell toasted, about 30 seconds. Transfer the pepitas to a small plate. Season them to taste with salt.
2 Make the broth: Purée the mole with the oil, ½ cup (120 ml) water, the avocado, lime zest and juice, vinegar, cilantro, and honey in a blender. Season it to taste with salt. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until it is chilled, at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
3 Combine the tuna, mango, onion, jalapeño, cilantro, and ¼ cup (30 g) of the pepitas in a large bowl. Add the mole verde broth and toss.
4 Divide the ceviche mixture and the broth among four soup bowls. Garnish each serving with lime wedges, drizzle with the chili oil, and sprinkle with the remaining pepitas. Serve them immediately, with the plantain chips.
TUNA CEVICHE NIKKEI
WITH YUZU BROTH
Ceviche de tuna Nikkei en caldo de yuzu
This excellent ceviche shows why Nikkei (the name given to the first wave of Japanese immigrants to Peru) cuisine is so fascinating. When I serve it, my guests can't quite pinpoint the flavors, but they all agree that the dish is delicious. It has the traditional Peruvian garnish of sweet potatoes and choclo (large corn kernels), but regular corn works well, too.
SERVES 4
FOR THE CEVICHE NIKKEI BROTH:
⅔ cup (75 ml) bottled clam juice
⅔ cup (75 ml) bottled yuzu juice or fresh lime juice
¼ celery rib, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons Ponzu, homemade (this page) or store-bought
2 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
½ garlic clove, peeled
2 ice cubes
12 ounces (340 g) sushi-grade ahi tuna, cut into ¾-inch (2-cm) chunks
2 scallions (white and green parts), julienned
1 ripe Hass avocado, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
¼ seedless cucumber, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
½ small red onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon finely chopped pickled ginger (optional)
Kosher salt
8 slices glazed sweet potato (see this page)
1 cup (130 g) cooked and chilled choclo (see Note, this page)
Furikake or puffed rice cereal, for garnish
1 Make the broth: Process the clam juice, yuzu juice, celery, ponzu, cilantro, sesame oil, garlic, and ice cubes in a blender and pulse to chop the ice cubes. Strain the mixture into a medium bowl.
2 Add the tuna, scallions, avocado, cucumber, onion, cilantro, and ginger to the broth and mix well. Season the ceviche to taste with salt.
3 Divide the tuna mixture and its broth among four serving bowls. Garnish each bowl with two sweet-potato slices and one-quarter of the choclo, and finish with a sprinkling of furikake. Serve it immediately.
PERUVIAN DINNER MENU
Pisco Sours (THIS PAGE)
Crispy Shrimp with Ají Amarillo Sauce (THIS PAGE)
Striped Bass Tiradito with Ponzu, Apple, & Radish (THIS PAGE)
Chicken Skewers with Nikkei Glaze (THIS PAGE)
Steamed Quinoa
Chilean Riesling
Piloncillo Pots de Crème (THIS PAGE)
TUNA
TIRADITO
WITH LEMON-WASABI DRESSING & AVOCADO
Tiradito de atún con aderezo de limón y wasabi con aguacate
This tiradito is almost a main-course salad, with slices of seared tuna served on a bed of mixed baby greens. The Japanese-inspired dressing has a little heat from the wasabi, and is a great vinaigrette to add to your repertoire to serve on other salads. Because this tiradito is such a good option for a summer lunch, I suggest serving it on a platter instead of in individual portions.
SERVES 4
FOR THE TUNA:
2 tablespoons shichimi togarashi
2 teaspoons kosher salt
12 ounces (340 g) sushi-grade ahi tuna, cut in half lengthwise across the grain
FOR THE LEMON-WASABI DRESSING:
½ cup (120 ml) canola oil
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped shallot
2 teaspoons wasabi powder
⅔ cup (75 ml) soy sauce
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon mirin
2 teaspoons peeled, micro-grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon bottled yuzu juice or fresh lime juice
5 ounces (140 g) mixed spring greens
1 ripe Hass avocado, sliced
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
Kosher salt
1 scallion (white and green parts), very thinly sliced
1 piece peeled fresh ginger, for micro-grating as garnish
1 Make the tuna: Mix the togarashi and salt together on a plate. Roll the tuna pieces in the spice mixture to coat them completely.
2 Heat a large dry nonstick skillet over high heat. Add the tuna and cook, turning it occasionally, just until it is seared on all sides but still raw inside, about 2 minutes. Transfer it to a plate, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate it until chilled, at least 2 hours.
3 Make the dressing: Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring often, until it is browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer it to a blender. Mix the wasabi and 1 tablespoon water together in a small bowl to dissolve the wasabi. Add them to the blender with the soy sauce, sugar, vinegar, lemon juice, mirin, ginger, and yuzu juice and process until everything is smooth. With the machine running, pour the remaining 7 tablespoons (105 ml) oil through the hole in the blender lid to make an emulsified dressing. (The dressing can be refrigerated in a covered container for up to 2 days.)
4 To serve, toss the greens, avocado, and cilantro with ½ cup (120 ml) of the dressing. Transfer the salad to a large serving platter. Sprinkle the scallions on the salad. On a cutting board, cut the tuna across the grain into slices about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick. Arrange the tuna on the salad. Drizzle about 2 tablespoons more of the dressing over the tuna. Top the tuna with a few gratings of fresh ginger. Serve it immediately, with the remaining dressing passed on the side.
SEAFOOD CEVICHE
WITH THREE CITRUS & HEARTS OF PALM
Ceviche de mariscos en un trío de cítricos y palmitos
Here is another cooked ceviche, and this one has three different kinds of seafood and a trio of citrus for a combination of colors, flavors, and textures. A fourth kind of fish, dried bonito flakes (an essential ingredient in Japanese cooking), can be sprinkled on top as a garnish. This ceviche should be served bracingly cold, so have all of the components well chilled before assembly. It makes six servings, so it is a good choice for a larger dinner party.
SERVES 6
FOR THE SEAFOOD:
Kosher salt
1 lemon, cut into thick rounds
8 ounces (225 g) cleaned calamari bodies, cut into ¼-inch (6-mm) rings
8 ounces (225 g) extra-large (26 to 30 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails removed
8 ounces (225 g) bay scallops
FOR THE SAUCE:
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
½ cup (120 ml) fresh orange juice
⅔ cup (75 ml) fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon ají panca paste, or 1½ teaspoons adobo from canned chipotles in adobo
1 tablespoon bottled yuzu juice (optional)
1 teaspoon Chinese chili-garlic paste or Sriracha (optional)
2 plum tomatoes, seeded and cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
1 navel orange, cut into segments
One 14-ounce (400-g) can hearts of palm, drained and cut into ¼-inch (6-mm) rounds
1 ear corn, roasted (see Note, this page), kernels cut from the cob
1 serrano or jalapeño chile, cut into thin rings
Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving
1 scallion, thinly sliced for serving
1 Make the seafood. Bring 2 quarts (2 L) salted water and the lemon rounds to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the calamari, shrimp, and scallops and cook (the water does not have to return to a boil) just until they turn opaque, about 2 minutes. Drain the seafood in a colander. Let it cool until tepid. Transfer it to a bowl, cover tightly, and refrigerate until it is chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day (you can keep it for 1 day).
2 Make the sauce: Whisk together the orange zest and juice, lime juice, lemon juice, sugar, honey, ají panca paste, and yuzu juice and chili-garlic paste, if using, in a medium bowl to dissolve the sugar. Add the tomatoes. Cover and refrigerate until the sauce is chilled, at least 1 and up to 4 hours.
3 Add the chilled seafood, orange segments, hearts of palm, corn kernels, and chile to the sauce and mix gently. Divide the seafood mixture and its sauce among six chilled serving bowls. Sprinkle each with cilantro and scallions. Serve the seafood chilled.
SHRIMP CEVICHE
WITH TOMATO-HABANERO BROTH
Ceviche de camarón con caldo de tomate y habanero
There isn't a rule that says ceviche must be made with raw fish, and this one-truly a crowd-pleaser-is made with cooked shrimp. It shows the kind of high-flavor cooking that I like to serve to my guests, and if one of them is an unadventurous eater who doesn't like raw fish, I'll make this and everyone will rest easy. Tomatoes, oranges, and habanero chilies are an amazingly refreshing combination, and really create the perfect appetizer to excite the palate.
SERVES 4
FOR THE SHRIMP:
Kosher salt
1 large lemon, sliced
1 pound (455 g) extra-large (26 to 30 count) peeled and deveined shrimp, tails removed
FOR THE TOMATO-HABANERO BROTH:
Grated zest of ½ orange
⅔ cup (165 ml) fresh orange juice
½ cup (120 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 ripe plum tomato, seeded and coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped yellow onion
1 small garlic clove, coarsely chopped
½ habanero chile, seeded and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons honey
½ cup (120 ml) canola oil
Kosher salt
1 ripe Hass avocado, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
1 small plum tomato, seeded and cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
1 navel orange, cut into segments, each segment cut in half
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
12 Pickled Red Onions (this page) or raw red onion rings
1 Make the shrimp: Bring 2 quarts (2 L) salted water and the lemon slices to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the shrimp and cook until they turn opaque, about 3 minutes. Drain and rinse them under cold running water. Transfer them to a bowl and refrigerate until they are chilled, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.
2 Make the broth: Process the orange zest and juice, lemon juice, tomato, onion, garlic, habanero, and honey in a blender until smooth. With the blender running, gradually pour the oil through the hole in the lid to make an emulsified broth. Season it to taste with salt. Pour it into a medium nonreactive bowl, cover, and refrigerate until it is chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. Whisk the broth well before using.
3 To serve, stir the shrimp, avocado, tomato, orange, and cilantro into the broth. Divide the shrimp and broth equally among four wide soup bowls. Top each with three pickled onion rings and serve them immediately.
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