BLACK COD
WITH LEMON-TOGARASHI AÏOLI
Bacalao con alioli de limón y chile Japonés
Miso has become a popular marinade for rich, oily fish, such as the black cod that I use here-it's also excellent with salmon. But this dish also has the sweet and savory flavors from the kabayaki glaze and lemon aïoli. The fish is finished off with garnishes of the glaze and aïoli, so you'll need two plastic squeeze bottles.
SERVES 4
FOR THE KABAYAKI SAUCE:
¾ cup (180 ml) Junmai-shu sake, such as Gekkeikan Traditional
¾ cup (180 ml) soy sauce
¾ cup (150 g) sugar
7 tablespoons (105 ml) mirin
FOR THE CHIPOTLE-MISO MARINADE AND BLACK COD:
⅔ cup (100 g) white miso
¼ cup (50 g) sugar
2 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons sake
2 canned chipotle chilies in adobo, with clinging sauce
Four 6-ounce (170-g) skinless black cod or center-cut salmon fillets
FOR THE LEMON-TOGARASHI AÏOLI:
½ cup (120 ml) mayonnaise, preferably Kewpie
2 teaspoons shichimi togarashi
2 teaspoons sake
1½ teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 garlic clove, very finely minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ pounds (680 g) asparagus, woody stems snapped off, stalks peeled with a vegetable peeler
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives
1 Make the kabayaki sauce: Bring 1½ cups (360 ml) water, the sake, soy sauce, sugar, and mirin to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring often to be sure the sugary mixture does not burn, until it is reduced by about three-quarters and thickened into a syrup, about 20 minutes. Remove it from the heat and let the sauce cool. (The sauce will thicken more as it cools.) The kabayaki sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.
2 Make the marinade: Purée the miso, sugar, mirin, sake, and chipotles in a blender. Pour them into a 1-gallon (3.8-L) zip-top plastic bag. Add the cod and seal the bag. Refrigerate it, turning the bag occasionally, for at least 4 hours or overnight.
3 Make the togarashi aïoli: Whisk the mayonnaise, togarashi, sake, lemon juice, and garlic together in a medium bowl. Season them to taste with salt and pepper.
4 Position a broiler rack about 8 inches (20 cm) from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high. If the broiler is in the oven, position an oven rack in the center of the oven. Otherwise, preheat a separate oven to 500°F (260°C).
5 Toss the asparagus with the oil on a large rimmed baking sheet. Spread the asparagus in a single layer in the pan.
6 Remove the cod from the marinade and discard the marinade. Oil the broiler rack. Add the cod, skinned-side up. Broil until it is lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Turn it skinned-side down and continue cooking for 2 minutes. Brush it with the glaze until the flesh looks barely opaque when pierced in the thickest part with the tip of a knife, 8 to 10 minutes. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, add the asparagus and cook, turning it occasionally, until it is crisp-tender. Remove the cod and asparagus from the oven.
7 For each serving, transfer a cod fillet to a dinner plate. Remove any protruding bones, if necessary. Spoon the aïoli and kabayaki sauce over the fillets. Add the asparagus. Sprinkle the chives over each plate and serve immediately.
GRILLED
MAHI MAHI TACOS
WITH POBLANO TARTAR SAUCE
Tacos de mahi-mahi con salsa tártara de chile poblano
The classic fish taco hails from Baja, California, where most versions are battered and deep-fried. They are good in their own way, but I prefer this recipe with marinated and grilled mahi mahi. A perforated grill pan will help keep the fish fillets from sticking to the grate. This recipe is also great with other firm fish fillets, such as snapper, grouper, or striped bass.
SERVES 4 TO 6
FOR THE POBLANO TARTAR SAUCE:
1 cup (240 ml) mayonnaise
1 poblano chile, roasted, seeded, and cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
Finely grated zest of ½ lime
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 garlic clove, minced
FOR THE LEMON-ACHIOTE MARINADE AND MAHI MAHI:
½ cup (120 ml) mayonnaise
¼ cup (60 ml) fresh lemon juice
1½ tablespoons Achiote (this page) or store-bought condimento de achiote (see Note; optional)
1 teaspoon honey
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ pounds (680 g) skinless mahi mahi fillets
FOR THE FISH TACO SLAW:
2 cups (130 g) packed shredded green cabbage
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Twelve 6-inch (15-cm) flour tortillas
1 ripe Hass avocado, thinly sliced
Lime wedges, for serving
1 Make the tartar sauce: Mix the mayonnaise, chile, lime zest and juice, and garlic together in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate the sauce for at least 1 hour and up to 3 days.
2 Make the marinade: Whisk the mayonnaise, lemon juice, achiote, if using, and honey together in a medium bowl. Season them to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the marinade to a 1-gallon (3.8-L) zip-top plastic bag and add the mahi. Refrigerate it, turning the bag occasionally, for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.
3 Make the slaw: Mix the cabbage, cilantro, and lime juice together in a medium bowl. Season them to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate the slaw for no longer than 1 hour, or it will lose its crispness.
4 Meanwhile, prepare an outdoor grill for direct cooking over medium-high heat. For a charcoal grill, let the coals burn until they are covered with white ash and you can hold your hand about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the cooking grate for 2 to 3 seconds. For a gas grill, preheat it on high and adjust the heat to 450°F (230°C). Heat a perforated grill pan on the grate.
5 Remove the mahi from the marinade, letting the marinade cling to the fish. Place the mahi on the grill. Cook it, with the lid closed as much as possible, until the underside of the mahi is browned and releases easily from the grate, about 3 minutes. Turn the mahi over and cook to brown the other side, about 3 minutes more. Transfer it to a cutting board and tent it with aluminum foil to keep warm.
6 Remove the grill pan and quickly brush the grill grates clean. Place the tortillas on the grill and cook, turning them occasionally, until they are lightly browned on both sides and heated through, about 1 minute. Transfer them to a napkin-lined bowl and wrap them in the napkin to keep warm.
7 Put the avocado slices and lime wedges in separate bowls. Cut the mahi across the grain into ½-inch (12-mm) slices and transfer them to a bowl. Put the bowls of fish, tortillas, tartar sauce, avocado, and the cabbage mixture on the table. Let each person make a taco, adding the fish, sauce, cabbage, and avocado to a tortilla, folding it in half. Eat them immediately, with a squeeze of lime juice.
NOTE If you wish, substitute 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 1 minced garlic clove, ¼ teaspoon ground cumin, ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper, and a pinch of ground cloves for the achiote.
ACHIOTE SALMON
WITH CHIPOTLE AÏOLI
Salmón con achiote y alioli de chipotle
The aïoli for this requires the Achiote on this page, but this is exactly the kind of interesting dish with unusual ingredient that will have your guests wondering about the source of the delicious flavors.
SERVES 4
FOR THE ACHIOTE-PONZU BROTH:
½ cup (120 ml) fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons Achiote (this page) or store-bought condimento de achiote
One 3-inch (7.5-cm) square piece of kombu (dried seaweed for cooking), rinsed under cold water
¼ cup (60 ml) mirin
¼ cup (60 ml) Ponzu, homemade (this page) or store-bought
Kosher salt
FOR THE CHAYOTE-MUSHROOM SAUTÉ:
2 slices bacon, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) lengths
2 tablespoons canola oil
8 ounces (225 g) cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 chayote, hard center trimmed, cut into julienne (use a mandoline, V-slicer, or large knife)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SALMON AND MARINADE:
3 tablespoons Achiote (this page) or store-bought condimento de achiote
3 tablespoons Sriracha
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
2 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
Four 6-ounce (170-g) skinless salmon fillets
¼ cup (60 ml) Chipotle Aïoli (this page) in a plastic squeeze bottle
1 Make the broth: Process the orange juice and achiote together in a blender until smooth. Set them aside.
2 Bring ½ cup (120 ml) water to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Remove it from the heat, add the kombu, and let it stand for 30 minutes. Strain the mixture through a wire sieve into a bowl, discarding the kombu. Rinse out the saucepan and return the liquid to the saucepan. Add the mirin, ponzu, and the reserved orange juice mixture and bring them to a simmer over medium heat. Season the broth to taste with salt. (The broth can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 3 hours. Reheat it gently without boiling before serving.)
3 Make the sauté: Cook the bacon in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring it occasionally, until it is crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Discard the bacon fat and wipe out the skillet.
4 Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in the skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until they are beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer them to a bowl. (The bacon and mushrooms can be stored at room temperature for up to 2 hours.)
5 Make the marinade: Process the achiote, Sriracha, vinegar, ginger, garlic, and ¼ cup (60 ml) water together in a blender until smooth. Put the salmon in a nonreactive baking dish and add the marinade. Cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.
6 To finish the sauté: Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chayote and cook, stirring it occasionally, until it is crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Return the mushrooms and bacon to the skillet and cook, stirring them often, until they are heated through, about 1 minute more. Season the sauté to taste with salt and pepper. Remove it from the heat and cover it, with the lid ajar, to keep warm.
7 Meanwhile, to cook the salmon, position a broiler rack about 6 inches (15 cm) from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high. Lightly oil the broiler pan.
8 Remove the salmon from the marinade and place it on the broiler pan. Broil until the top of the salmon turns opaque, about 3 minutes. Turn the salmon over and cook it until the top is turning opaque, about 3 minutes more. Remove the broiler pan from the oven and pipe random zigzags of the aïoli across the top of the salmon. Return it to the broiler and cook until the aïoli is browned, about 1 minute more.
9 To serve, divide the chayote mixture among four deep, wide soup bowls. Top each with a salmon fillet. Ladle equal amounts of the broth around each fillet. Serve them hot.
SEAFOOD
ENCHILADAS
WITH GREEN TOMATILLO SALSA
Enchiladas de mariscos con salsa de tomatillo y jalapeño
Filled with shrimp, crab, spinach, and mascarpone, these first-class seafood enchiladas could become a go-to dinner party dish. If you wish, use either crab or shrimp, but the combination is a winner. Be careful not to fully cook the shrimp when sautéing, as they will cook more in the oven. The enchiladas can be rolled, sauced, and refrigerated for a few hours and baked just before serving, giving you another reason for putting them on the short list for party entrées.
SERVES 4
FOR THE SEAFOOD FILLING:
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (135 ml) canola oil, plus more for the baking dish
¾ cup (115 g) finely chopped white onion
2 cups (130 g) well-washed, coarsely chopped spinach leaves
8 ounces (225 g) large (31 to 40 count) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and coarsely chopped
8 ounces (225 g) crab meat, picked over for cartilage
1 cup (230 g) mascarpone cheese
2 poblano chilies, roasted, peeled, seeded, and chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 recipes Tomatillo-Jalapeño Green Salsa (this page)
12 corn tortillas
1 cup (115 g) shredded Muenster or Chihuahua cheese
1 Make the filling: Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the spinach and cook, stirring often, until it is wilted and tender. Transfer the mixture to a wire sieve and press hard on it to extract excess moisture. Transfer it to a medium bowl.
2 Add another 1 tablespoon of the oil to the skillet and heat it over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and cook just until they turn opaque, about 1½ minutes. Do not overcook. Add them to the spinach mixture. Stir in the crab meat, mascarpone, and poblano. Season the filling to taste with salt and pepper. (The filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 4 hours.)
3 Lightly oil a 10-by-15-inch (25-by-38-cm) baking dish. Spread 3 tablespoons of the salsa in the bottom of the dish.
4 Heat the remaining ½ cup (120 ml) oil in a medium skillet over medium heat until the oil is hot but not smoking. One at a time, add a tortilla to the hot oil and cook just until it is pliable, about 10 seconds. Using tongs, lift the tortilla from the oil, letting the excess oil drip back into the skillet, and transfer the softened tortilla to a plate. Spoon about ¼ cup (65 g) of the filling into the center of the tortilla, roll it up, and transfer it, seam-side down, to the baking dish. Repeat with the remaining tortillas and filling. Spread the remaining salsa over the enchiladas. (The enchiladas can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 4 hours. Uncover them before baking.)
5 Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat it to 350°F (175°C).
6 Sprinkle the cheese over the enchiladas. Bake until the salsa is bubbling and the cheese is melted, about 20 minutes. Serve the enchiladas hot.
ZARANDEADO
SNAPPER TACOS
Tacos de pargo zarandeado
At Mexican beachside communities, you'll find pescado zarandeado, whole fish cooked in a grill basket. You don't really need the basket if you use fish fillets, and the flavor is just as great. (A perforated grill grate is the more modern way to keep fish from sticking to the grill.) The garam masala may seem like an odd addition, but it has just the right mix of warm spices to give distinction to the marinade.
SERVES 4
FOR THE MARINADE AND SNAPPER:
½ cup (120 ml) fresh orange juice
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons Achiote (this page) or store-bought condimento de achiote
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon toasted cumin seeds
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 guajillo chile, seeded, stemmed, and toasted, or 1 tablespoon pure ground ancho chile
Kosher salt
2 pounds (910 g) skinless red snapper fillets
FOR THE CHAYOTE AND CARROT SLAW:
1 chayote, peeled, hard central part removed
1 large carrot
½ small red onion, cut into thin half-moons
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
Kosher salt
12 corn tortillas, heated
1 cup (240 ml) Chipotle Aïoli (this page)
1 ripe Hass avocado, thinly sliced
Lime wedges, for serving
1 Make the marinade: Process the orange juice, oil, achiote, garam masala, cumin, garlic, and chile in a blender until thick and smooth. Season the marinade to taste with salt. Pour it into a shallow nonreactive baking dish. Add the snapper fillets, turn to coat them, cover, and refrigerate them for 15 to 30 minutes.
2 Make the chayote and carrot slaw: Using caution (the peeled chayote is slippery), cut the chayote into julienne on a mandoline or V-slicer. Repeat with the carrot. Transfer the vegetables to a medium bowl. Add the onion. Sprinkle them with the lime juice and cilantro and season to taste with salt. Cover and refrigerate the slaw for up to 1 hour.
3 Prepare an outdoor grill for direct cooking over high heat. For a charcoal grill, let the coals burn until they are covered with white ash and you can hold your hand about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the cooking grate for only 1 or 2 seconds. For a gas grill, preheat it on high and adjust the heat to 550°F (285°C). Heat a perforated grill pan on the grate.
4 Remove the fillets from the marinade, letting the marinade cling to the fish. Place them on the grill pan, flesh-side down. Cook them, with the lid closed as much as possible, for 3 minutes. Flip the fillets and cook them until the fish is opaque when pierced in the thickest part with the tip of a small sharp knife, about 3 minutes more (or less for small fillets). Transfer the fish fillets to a platter and tent them with aluminum foil to keep warm.
5 Brush the grates clean again. Place the tortillas on the grill and cook, turning them occasionally, until they are lightly browned on both sides and heated through, about 1 minute. Transfer them to a napkin-lined bowl and wrap them in the napkin to keep warm.
6 Serve bowls of the fish, slaw, aïoli, avocado, tortillas, and lime wedges. Let each guest make a taco with the desired ingredients.
ANCHO-PISTACHIO
TUNA STEAKS
WITH MOLE VERDE & APPLE-CILANTRO SALAD
Filetes de atún con chile ancho y pistachos con mole verde y ensalada de manzana, cilantro
Tuna's firm texture and full flavor are as much turf as surf, and these qualities can hold their own against strong seasonings. As a comparison, you wouldn't want to use this bold ancho-and-pistachio crust on flounder.
SERVES 4
FOR THE APPLE-CILANTRO SALAD:
1 Granny Smith apple, cored and cut into julienne
½ small red onion, cut into very thin half-moons
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE TUNA:
4 dried ancho chilies, stemmed and seeded (see Note)
1 teaspoon sugar
½ cup (60 g) shelled pistachios
Four 6-ounce (170-g) ahi tuna steaks, each cut 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
Canola oil
Kosher salt
¾ cup (240 g) Mole Verde (this page)
Fresh cilantro sprigs, for garnish
1 Make the salad: Mix the apples, onion, lime juice, and cilantro together in a medium bowl. Season them to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate the salad for up to 3 hours.
2 Make the tuna: Process the chilies and sugar together in a food processor until the chilies are roughly chopped, about 1 minute. In batches, transfer the mixture to an electric spice (coffee) grinder and process it to a coarse powder.
3 Add the pistachios and chile mixture to the food processor and pulse until the pistachios are finely ground but not a powder. Transfer the pistachio mixture to a wide bowl, and set aside 1 tablespoon for a garnish. Brush the tuna all over with oil and season with salt. Coat the tuna steaks on all sides with the pistachio mixture and transfer them to a plate.
4 Heat a very large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons oil and heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the tuna and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, adjusting the heat as needed so the tuna cooks steadily without burning the crust, until the underside is crispy, about 3 minutes. Turn and brown the other side for 3 minutes more for rare tuna. Transfer the tuna to a cutting board and let it stand for 2 minutes.
5 Meanwhile, heat the mole verde and 3 tablespoons water in a small saucepan over medium heat until simmering. Reduce the heat to very low to keep the mole warm.
6 Cut each steak across the grain into ½-inch (12-mm) slices. For each serving, spread about 3 tablespoons of the mole on a dinner plate. Using a slotted spoon, top each with one-quarter of the apple salad. Spread a tuna steak, fanning out the slices, over the salad. Garnish with a cilantro sprig. Sprinkle the reserved pistachio mixture over the plate as a garnish and serve the tuna immediately.
NOTE If you wish, substitute 3 tablespoons pure ground ancho chile. Although it is already ground, add it to the pistachios in the food processor before grinding the nuts, as the chile will help keep the pistachios from processing into butter.
MUSSELS
WITH BEER, CHORIZO, ORANGE & BASIL
Mejillones con cerveza, chorizo, naranja y albahaca
In Mediterranean cuisine, mussels are often cooked with white wine. In Mexico, where I grew up, the hot climate is much more friendly to growing the ingredients for beer, so I use that as the liquid for my mussels. The beer's bitterness is balanced by the sweet flavors of orange, basil, and honey. Be sure to serve this with crusty bread to sop up every drop of the sauce.
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons canola oil
8 ounces (225 g) smoked Spanish-style chorizo, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
1 medium white onion, finely chopped
5 tablespoons (70 g) unsalted butter, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, smashed under a knife and peeled
Two 12-ounce (340-ml) bottles dark beer, such as Negra Modelo
2 tablespoons honey
4 pounds (1.8 kg) cultivated mussels, such as Prince Edward Island, or sea-harvested mussels (see Note)
⅔ cup (10 g) loosely packed coarsely chopped fresh basil
Finely grated zest of 1 large orange
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the chorizo and cook until it is beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Stir in the onion and 1 tablespoon of the butter and reduce the heat to medium. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent but not browned, about 4 minutes.
2 Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the beer and honey and bring the liquid to a simmer over high heat. Add the mussels and tightly cover the pot. Cook, occasionally shaking the pot by its handles, until the mussels have opened, about 5 minutes. Remove them from the heat.
3 Using a wire sieve, scoop up the mussels and other solids from the pot, discarding any that have not opened, and divide them among four large soup bowls. Add the remaining butter, the basil, and orange zest to the pot and whisk until the butter has melted and lightly thickened the sauce. Season it to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle equal amounts of the sauce over the mussels. Serve them immediately.
NOTE Cultivated mussels, such as the ones raised on Prince Edward Island near Nova Scotia, now dominate the marketplace. The traditional sea-harvested mussels attach themselves to rocks with thick cords (called beards) that must be pulled off before cooking. Cultivated mussels don't have beards, making their preparation much easier-just rinse and cook.
To prepare sea-harvested mussels, scrub them well under cold running water, discarding any mussels that are not tightly closed or feel very heavy (as they may be dead and filled with mud). Transfer the mussels to a bowl of salted ice water and let them stand for 1 hour to expel any grit. Drain well. Using pliers, pull off and discard the thick, hairy beard from each mussel.
GARLIC SHRIMP
TORTAS
Tortas con camarones al ajillo
Garlic shrimp is a recipe that you'll find in just about every Latin cuisine from Puerto Rico to Spain. You won't find two recipes that are exactly alike. Mine has heat from chilies de árbol, acidity and fragrance from lemons, and white wine to pull it all together. Serve it on crusty rolls and you'll get to savor every bit of the sauce.
SERVES 4
1½ pounds (680 g) large (31 to 40 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 large bay leaf, broken in half
3 dried chilies, such as chilies de árbol, stemmed and seeded, each cut in half
1½ cups (360 ml) dry white wine
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (zest the lemon first)
4 tablespoons (½ stick; 55 g) unsalted butter, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
4 crusty rolls, split lengthwise and toasted
2 ripe plum tomatoes, thinly sliced
1 cup (40 g) baby arugula
1 Season the shrimp with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Heat the oil, garlic, bay leaf, and chilies in a very large skillet over medium-high heat, stirring often, until the garlic begins to brown, about 1½ minutes. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring often, just until the shrimp turn opaque, about 4 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a serving bowl.
2 Add the wine and lemon juice to the skillet and bring them to a boil over high heat. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Return the shrimp to the skillet and cook to reheat them, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter, parsley, and lemon zest. Stir until the butter has melted and lightly thickened the sauce. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper.
3 Place a roll on each dinner plate. Spoon the shrimp and sauce over the bottom half of each roll. Top each with a few tomato slices and a handful of arugula, and place the top half on each roll. Cut the rolls in half and serve them immediately.
PARMESAN-CRUSTED
SCALLOPS
WITH LIME BUTTER SAUCE & CILANTRO
Vieiras con cubierta crocante de queso parmesano con salsa de mantequilla de limón y cilantro
These sweet sea scallops are capped with a golden brown crust that gives them a five-star appearance, but they are really very easy to make. You will need the biggest (colossal) scallops for this recipe to be sure that they don't get overcooked. The scallops could also be served simply with a sprinkle of cilantro and lemon wedges.
SERVES 4
FOR THE PARMESAN-PANKO BUTTER:
1 cup (60 g) panko
1 cup (115 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
½ cup (1 stick; 115 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
FOR THE LIME BUTTER SAUCE:
2 limes
½ cup (120 ml) dry white wine
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
1 cup (2 sticks; 230 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
20 colossal-size sea scallops, patted dry with paper towels
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 tablespoons whole fresh cilantro leaves
1 Make the butter: At least 4 hours before serving, use a rubber spatula to mash the panko, cheese, and butter together in a medium bowl until they are completely combined. Spoon the butter onto a 12-inch (30.5-cm) sheet of plastic wrap. Using the wrap as an aid, shape the butter into a log about 10 inches (25 cm) long. The diameter of the log should be about the same width as the scallops. Twist the ends of the plastic wrap and freeze it until the butter is firm, at least 4 hours.
2 Make the sauce: Finely grate the peel from 1 lime; set the zest aside. Juice the limes; you should have 3 tablespoons. Bring the lime juice, wine, and shallot to a boil in a small nonreactive saucepan over high heat. Boil until the wine has reduced to about 2 tablespoons, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to very low. A few cubes at a time, whisk in the butter, whisking constantly to let each addition soften into a creamy mass before adding more cubes. The butter should not actually melt into a liquid, but emulsify into a sauce. Strain the sauce into a small bowl and stir in the zest; discard the shallot. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Return it to the saucepan. (The sauce can be prepared to this point and kept at room temperature for up to 1 hour. Whisk it over very low heat until barely warm.) About 20 minutes before cooking, remove the Parmesan butter from the freezer and let it soften slightly. Cut the butter into twenty equal slices about ½ inch (12 mm) thick.
3 Position a broiler rack about 8 inches (20 cm) from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high. Season the scallops with the salt and pepper.
4 Heat a very large skillet (the scallops should fit in a single layer) with an ovenproof handle over medium-high heat. Add the oil, swirl it in the skillet, and heat until the oil is very hot but not smoking. Stand the scallops, flat-side down, in the skillet. Cook, turning them once, until they are golden brown on both sides, about 5 minutes. Quickly top each scallop with a slice of the Parmesan butter. Transfer the skillet to the broiler and cook, watching carefully to avoid burning, until the panko crust is nicely browned (it will hold its shape and not melt), about 1 minute.
5 Divide the scallops among four dinner plates. Spoon the sauce around the scallops and sprinkle them with the cilantro. Serve immediately.
SEAFOOD & BACON
GRATINÉE TACOS
Tacos de mariscos y tocino glaseado
When people share food from a common platter, the sense of community and conviviality is heightened. Tacos of marinated seafood and crisp bacon, glazed with a chile aïoli, are really a sophisticated dish served in a rustic manner. And it could become one of your favorite party dishes (as it is mine) because it takes just a final few minutes to assemble, broil, and serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6
FOR THE ADOBO MARINADE:
4 guajillo chilies, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped white onion
1 garlic clove, smashed under a knife and peeled
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Kosher salt
12 ounces (340 g) large sea scallops
12 ounces (340 g) medium (41 to 50 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
FOR THE CHILE DE ÁRBOL AÏOLI:
1 tablespoon canola oil
¼ cup (35 g) finely chopped yellow onion
3 garlic cloves, minced
¼ cup (65 g) tomato paste
3 chilies de árbol, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped
5 black peppercorns
1 cup (240 ml) chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup (240 ml) mayonnaise
FOR THE CABBAGE-LIME SLAW:
2 cups (130 g) shredded cabbage
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro (optional)
4 slices bacon
1 cup (80 g) coarsely crushed tortilla chips, coarsely ground in a blender
Twelve 8-inch (20-cm) flour tortillas, heated according to package directions
1 Make the marinade: Put the chilies, onion, garlic, cumin, and cinnamon in a small saucepan and add enough cold water to barely cover them. Bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the chilies are very tender but not falling apart, about 30 minutes. Strain the mixture through a wire sieve into a heatproof bowl, reserving the liquid. Transfer the chile mixture to a blender. With the blender running, pour in enough of the reserved liquid to make a smooth marinade. Season with salt. Pour the marinade into a 1-gallon (3.8-L) zip-top plastic bag and let it cool completely.
2 Add the scallops and shrimp to the cooled marinade and seal the bag. Refrigerate it, turning the bag occasionally, for at least 1 and up to 4 hours.
3 Make the aïoli: Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring them occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the tomato paste, chilies, and peppercorns and reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring often, until the tomato paste has turned a deeper shade of red, making sure the tomato paste does not burn, about 10 minutes. Stir in the stock, scraping up the paste with a wooden spoon. Return the heat to medium and simmer the liquid briskly, stirring often, until the mixture is reduced to a few tablespoons, about 10 minutes more. Let it cool completely. Transfer it to a blender and purée to grind the peppercorns. Add the mayonnaise and process again until it is combined. Transfer the aïoli to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate it for up to 8 hours.
4 Make the slaw: Toss the cabbage with the lime juice and season it to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the cilantro, if using. Cover and refrigerate it until ready to use, up to 2 hours. (The cabbage slaw should be crisp, so don't refrigerate it longer than 2 hours, or it will wilt.)
5 Cook the bacon in a medium skillet, turning it occasionally, until it is crisp and brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer it to paper towels to drain and cool. Chop the bacon into ¼-inch (6-mm) pieces. Cover and refrigerate it until ready to use.
6 Drain the scallops and shrimp in a colander to remove any excess marinade. Pat the seafood dry with paper towels. Heat a large nonstick skillet over high heat. Add the scallops and shrimp and cook, stirring them occasionally, until they are seared, about 2 minutes. Transfer them to a plate and let them cool. Cover the plate with plastic wrap and refrigerate it until chilled, at least 1 and up to 3 hours.
7 Position the broiler rack about 8 inches (20 cm) from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high.
8 Toss the chilled seafood with the aïoli in a large bowl. Transfer it to an ovenproof serving dish large enough to hold the mixture in a single layer. Broil the seafood until the aïoli is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle the crushed tortilla chips and bacon on top.
9 To serve, allow the guests to make their own tacos, filling a tortilla with a spoonful of the seafood mixture topped with the slaw.
CRISPY SHRIMP
LETTUCE WRAPS
WITH TAMARIND SAUCE
Camarón crocante envuelto en lechuga con salsa de tamarindo
When eating this incredible Asian stir-fry, you will discover a huge range of flavors and textures-crispy, sweet, sour, spicy, salty, tender, and a few more! As when cooking all stir-fried dishes, organization is key. Once everything is prepped, your final assembly is accomplished in just a few minutes. Learn how to make this dish, because you will want to cook it again.
SERVES 4
FOR THE TAMARIND DIP:
1 tablespoon canola oil
½ small yellow onion, finely chopped
1 small garlic clove, minced
½ red or green jalapeño, seeded and minced
1 cup (240 ml) Thai sweet chili sauce
½ cup (140 g) tamarind concentrate
2 teaspoons pure ground ancho chile
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh mint
1½ teaspoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
½ teaspoon Sriracha or other hot red pepper sauce
Kosher salt
FOR THE CRISPY SHRIMP FILLING:
2 tablespoons Thai sweet chili sauce
2 tablespoons Chinese XO or oyster sauce
1 cup (140 g) cornstarch
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1¼ pounds (570 g) shelled jumbo (21 to 25 count) rock shrimp or peeled and deveined jumbo standard shrimp
2 tablespoons canola oil
5 ounces (140 g) smoked Spanish-style chorizo, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
¼ cup (35 g) chopped shallot
⅔ cup (45 g) coarsely chopped roasted unsalted peanuts
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
12 Bibb lettuce leaves
1 Make the dip: Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and jalapeño and cook, stirring them occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 3 minutes. Transfer the onion mixture to a blender. Add the chili sauce, tamarind, ground chile, vinegar, mint, cilantro, and Sriracha and process until they are smooth. Season the dip to taste with salt. Transfer it to a bowl and let it cool completely. (The sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
2 Make the filling: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 200°F (90°C). Place a wire cooling rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
3 Whisk ¾ cup (180 ml) of the tamarind dip with the chili sauce and XO sauce in a small bowl to combine; set it aside. Divide the remaining tamarind sauce among four ramekins to use as a dip.
4 Pour in enough oil to come halfway up the sides of a large saucepan and heat it over high heat until the oil reaches 350°F (175°C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Whisk the cornstarch and flour together. Whisk in enough water, about ½ cup (120 ml), to make a thick, clinging batter for the shrimp. In batches, coat the shrimp in the batter. Lift the shrimp from the batter, letting the excess drip back into the bowl, and transfer the coated shrimp to the oil. Deep-fry the shrimp until golden brown, about 2½ minutes. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to the wire cooling rack and keep them warm in the oven while frying the remaining shrimp.
5 Heat a large wok or skillet over high heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the inside of the pan. Add the chorizo and stir-fry until it is beginning to brown, about 30 seconds. Add the shallot and stir-fry until it is softened, about 15 seconds. Add the tamarind sauce mixture, peanuts, and cilantro and stir-fry until the sauce is simmering, about 30 seconds. Add the shrimp and stir-fry just until they are coated with the sauce, about 15 seconds. Remove the skillet from the heat.
6 For each serving, place three lettuce leaves on a dinner plate. Divide the filling equally among the leaves. Serve at once, with ramekins of sauce for dipping. (Remove the shrimp tails, if attached, before eating.)
SPANISH-STYLE
RISOTTO
WITH SEAFOOD
Arroz con mariscos
Paella meets risotto in this comforting stovetop rice dish. It is a myth that risotto requires constant stirring. You do want to stir it often to release the starches in the arborio rice to give the dish its famous creamy texture, and a heavy saucepan to prevent scorching is a good idea. If I have some lobster meat in the refrigerator, I like to add it to the risotto along with the cherry tomatoes and butter at the end.
SERVES 4
Three 8-ounce (240-ml) bottles clam juice
4 tablespoons (60 ml) olive oil
8 ounces (225 g) jumbo (21 to 25 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
8 ounces (225 g) calamari bodies and tentacles, cleaned, bodies cut into ½-inch (12-mm) rings
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 ounces (140 g) Spanish-style smoked chorizo, cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
4 tablespoons (½ stick; 55 g) unsalted butter
¾ cup (105 g) finely chopped shallots
2 garlic cloves, minced
1¾ cups (350 g) Arborio rice
1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine
¼ teaspoon crumbled saffron threads
2 pounds (910 g) cultivated mussels, such as Prince Edward Island, or littleneck clams, scrubbed under cold water (see Note, this page)
8 cherry tomatoes, halved
Finely chopped chives, for garnish
1 Bring the clam juice and 1 cup (240 ml) water to a simmer in a medium saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to very low and keep it warm.
2 Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and calamari and cook, stirring them often, just until they turn opaque, about 2 minutes. Do not overcook. Season the seafood mixture to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the shrimp mixture to a bowl and tent it with aluminum foil to keep it warm.
3 Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the chorizo and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter with ½ cup (70 g) of the shallots and the garlic and cook, stirring often, until the shallots are softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring often, until it turns chalky white and feels heavier in the spoon, about 2 minutes. Stir in the wine and saffron and cook, stirring often, until the wine is almost absorbed by the rice mixture, about 2 minutes.
4 Spoon ¾ cup (180 ml) of the hot clam juice into the rice and adjust the heat so the liquid is at a steady simmer. Stir almost constantly, until the liquid is about three-quarters reduced, about 2½ minutes. Add another ¾ cup (180 ml) of the juice and stir until the liquid reaches the same point of reduction, about 2½ minutes more. Repeat the procedure, until the rice is barely tender and has a loose, flowing consistency, 15 to 20 minutes more. If you run out of the hot clam juice, use hot water.
5 About 7 minutes before the rice is done, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the remaining ¼ cup (35 g) shallots and cook until they are softened, about 2 minutes. Add the mussels, cover the pot tightly, and increase the heat to high. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the mussels open, about 5 minutes. Set the pot aside with the lid ajar.
6 When the rice is done, stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Stir in the shrimp and calamari with any collected juices and the cherry tomatoes. Season the rice mixture with salt and pepper.
7 Divide the rice mixture among four deep bowls. Use tongs to add equal amounts of the mussels to each bowl. (The mussel cooking liquid can be reserved for another use as seafood stock.) Sprinkle the tops with the chives and serve the risotto hot.
CASUAL SEAFOOD SUPPER
Ginger Fizzes (THIS PAGE)
Perfect Palomas (THIS PAGE)
Shrimp and Bacon Quesadillas (THIS PAGE)
Seafood Enchiladas with Green Tomatillo Salsa (THIS PAGE)
Grilled Avocado with Baby Greens & Corn Pico de Gallo (THIS PAGE)
Mexican Beer
Chocolate Dulce de Leche Roulade (THIS PAGE)
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