CORN PANCAKES
WITH SAVORY TOMATO JAM & CHEESE
Cachapas con mermelada de tomate y queso
I serve these most often as a sweet-and-savory main course with a salad. However, with a side of sausage or pork, they are also a fine brunch dish. One important note: This is a more delicate batter than in American pancakes, so I recommend making a test pancake first to check the cooking time and griddle temperature. The tomato jam will keep for a few weeks in the refrigerator, but it probably won't last that long. You will need sweet corn flour for arepas to make these.
SERVES 4; MAKES ABOUT 12 PANCAKES
FOR THE SPICY TOMATO JAM:
One 3-inch (7.5-cm) cinnamon stick
1 star anise
2 pounds (910 g) ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice (see Note)
⅔ cup (75 ml) red wine vinegar
⅔ cup plus 1 tablespoon (85 g) sugar
1 jalapeño, preferably red, cut into thin rounds, seeds removed
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon pure ground chipotle chile
FOR THE CACHAPAS:
2 cups (290 g) fresh corn kernels
½ cup (1 stick; 115 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to tepid
½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
⅔ cup (75 ml) whole milk
1 large egg
¾ cup (105 g) sweet corn flour for arepas (see this page)
⅔ cup (45 g) all-purpose flour
¼ cup (50 g) sugar
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
Canola oil, for the griddle
1 cup (115 g) shredded Oaxaca or string cheese
1 Make the jam: Wrap the cinnamon stick and star anise together in a rinsed piece of cheesecloth and tie them into a packet with kitchen string. Bring the tomatoes, spice packet, vinegar, sugar, and jalapeño to a boil in a medium nonreactive saucepan, stirring often. Reduce the heat to low. Simmer, stirring often and breaking up the tomatoes with the side of the spoon, until the tomatoes are pulpy and the juices are almost completely evaporated, about 1 hour. Transfer the jam to a nonreactive bowl and let it cool. Stir in the lime juice, cilantro, soy sauce, and chipotle. (The jam can be refrigerated in a covered container for up to 3 weeks.)
2 Make the cachapas: Purée the corn, butter, cream, milk, and egg together in a blender. Add the arepas flour, all-purpose flour, sugar, and salt and blend until the batter is smooth, stopping the blender to scrape down the sides of the jar as needed.
3 Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 200°F (90°C). Heat a large griddle or skillet over medium heat.
4 Oil the griddle. Using about ¼ cup (60 ml) for each, pour the batter onto the griddle and cook it until small bubbles form on the surface and the tops of the pancakes look set, about 2 minutes. Turn the pancakes over and sprinkle each with about 1 tablespoon of the cheese. Continue cooking them until the other sides are golden brown and the cheese is slightly melted, about 1½ minutes more. Transfer the pancakes to a large rimmed baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven while cooking the remaining pancakes.
5 Serve the pancakes hot, each topped with a spoonful of tomato jam.
NOTE To peel tomatoes, bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. A few at a time, drop the tomatoes into the water and boil them just until the skin loosens, about 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatoes to a bowl of ice water. Let them cool briefly, then use a paring knife to peel off the skin.
WILD MUSHROOM
& CORN ENCHILADAS
WITH POBLANO SAUCE
Enchiladas de setas silvestres y maíz con salsa Poblana
A vegetarian main course like this will make meat-eaters jealous. The mushrooms listed in the ingredients are only suggestions. Experiment with what is available at your grocery or farmers' market. An Asian market is an especially good place to make some discoveries, and I often make this with maitake (or hen-of-the-woods) and king trumpet mushrooms in the mix. Some mushrooms give off more juices than others, so be prepared to adjust the filling cooking time as needed for the juices to evaporate.
SERVES 4
FOR THE MUSHROOM AND CORN FILLING:
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound (455 g) fresh mushrooms, such as cremini, oyster, and stemmed shiitake, sliced
1 cup (240 ml) whole or part-skim ricotta cheese
1 cup (220 g) roasted corn kernels (see Note, this page) or thawed frozen
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE POBLANO SAUCE:
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
5 poblano chilies, roasted, seeded, and coarsely chopped
3 cups (720 ml) heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (120 ml) canola oil, plus more for the baking dish
12 corn tortillas
1 cup (115 g) shredded Oaxaca or string cheese
1 Make the filling: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring them occasionally, until the onion softens, about 3 minutes. In batches, stir in the mushrooms, letting the first addition wilt before adding the next. Increase the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring them occasionally, until the mushrooms are beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer them to a bowl and let them cool completely.
2 Stir the ricotta, corn, and oregano into the mushroom mixture. Season it to taste with salt and pepper. (The mushroom filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 day.)
3 Make the poblano sauce: Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring them occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 4 minutes. Stir in the chilies and cream and bring them to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook the sauce at a steady simmer until the cream has thickened lightly, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the sauce cool. In batches, purée the poblano mixture in a blender. You should have 4 cups (960 ml) sauce. If necessary, adjust the amount with more cream or reduce the sauce further in the saucepan. Season it to taste with salt and pepper. (The sauce can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 day.)
4 Lightly oil a 10-by-15-inch (25-by-38-cm) baking dish. Spread about ½ cup (120 ml) of the sauce in the baking dish. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat until the oil is hot but not smoking. Add a tortilla to the hot oil and cook just until it is pliable, about 10 seconds. Using tongs, lift the tortilla from the oil, letting the excess oil drip back into the skillet, and transfer the softened tortilla to a plate. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the filling into the center of the tortilla, roll it up, and transfer it, seam-side down, to the baking dish. Repeat with the remaining tortillas and filling. Pour the remaining sauce evenly over the enchiladas. (The enchiladas can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 hours. Uncover them before baking.)
5 Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Sprinkle the cheese over the enchiladas. Bake them until the sauce is bubbling, about 30 minutes (or 40 minutes if the enchiladas have been refrigerated). Let them stand for 5 minutes before serving.
GORDITAS
WITH SUMMER VEGETABLES
Gorditas con vegetales de verano
Gorditas ("little fatsos") have an impolite name that calls attention to their plumpness. Usually they are a thick plain tortilla, but I add a vegetable mixture to the dough to make them a satisfying meatless meal. While a tortilla press speeds up the process of making the gorditas, they can also be rolled by hand between plastic sandwich bags.
SERVES 4
FOR THE FILLING:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
1 medium zucchini, cut lengthwise into quarters, seeded and cut into ⅛-inch (3-mm) dice
½ cup (110 g) roasted corn kernels (see Note, this page)
1 plum tomato, seeded and cut into ¼-inch (6-mm) dice
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 cup (115 g) shredded Oaxaca or string cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE MASA:
2 cups (240 g) masa harina
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Canola oil, for the griddle
1½ cups (350 g) Tomatillo-Jalapeño Green Salsa (this page)
½ cup (120 ml) crema or sour cream
½ cup (55 g) crumbled cotija cheese
1 Make the filling: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring it occasionally, until it is beginning to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring it often, until the zucchini is tender but not browned, about 10 minutes. Add the corn, tomato, and garlic and cook, stirring them often, until the tomato is tender, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cilantro and oregano. Let the filling cool. Stir in the cheese and season the filling to taste with salt and pepper.
2 Make the masa: Mix the masa harina and salt together in the bowl of a standing heavy-duty electric mixer. Attach the bowl to the mixer and affix the paddle attachment. With the machine on low speed, gradually mix in 1⅓ cups (315 ml) cold water. Mix the dough on medium-low speed until it is smooth, about 1 minute. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Divide the dough into twelve equal pieces (a kitchen scale comes in handy here) and shape them into balls. Loosely cover the balls with plastic wrap.
3 Cut twelve 6-inch (15-cm) square pieces of parchment or waxed paper. For each gordita, put a plastic sandwich bag on the bottom part of a tortilla press. Place a masa ball in the center of the press and top it with a second bag. Close the top to gently press the masa into a round tortilla about 5 inches (12 cm) in diameter. Peel away the plastic bags from the tortilla. (Or roll out each ball between the sandwich bags with a rolling pin.) Place the tortilla in one hand and spoon about 1 tablespoon of the filling into the center. Bring up the edges of the tortilla to cover the filling and pat it into a ball. Don't worry if some of the vegetable mixture peeks through the dough. Place the ball between the plastic bags and press it gently into a thick round about 4½ inches (11 cm) in diameter. (Or roll it out between the sandwich bags.) Transfer the gordita to a plate. As you roll the gorditas, stack them on the plate separated with the parchment paper squares. (The gorditas can be loosely covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 2 hours.)
4 Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 200°F (90°C).
5 Heat a seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Lightly oil the griddle. In batches, add the gorditas and cook, turning them occasionally, until they are lightly browned and heated through, about 2 minutes. Transfer them to a rimmed baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven while cooking the remaining gorditas.
6 Serve the gorditas hot, with the salsa, crema, and cheese passed on the side.
CHIPOTLE
MACARONI & CHEESE
Macarrones en salsa de queso con chipotle
My basic mac and cheese isn't standard issue, even though I do use pasteurized cheese product (aka Velveeta) in my sauce. (I can't apologize for this, as I have found that other cheeses get gritty from overheating in the oven, which is hard to avoid.) Chipotle gives it zing, and some onion also helps keep it lively.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Kosher salt
2 cups (225 g) elbow macaroni or small shells
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1 ripe plum tomato, seeded and cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
1 poblano chile, roasted, seeded, and cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
1 canned chipotle chile in adobo, plus 2 teaspoons adobo sauce
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream
8 ounces (225 g) pasteurized cheese product, such as Velveeta, cut into large cubes
½ cup (35 g) panko
1 Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 350°F (175°C). Lightly butter an 8-by-11½-inch (20-by-30-cm) baking dish.
2 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the macaroni and cook it according to the package directions until it is almost tender. (The macaroni will cook further in the oven, so do not overcook it at this point.) Drain it well.
3 Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring it occasionally, until it is translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the tomato, poblano, chipotle, and adobo sauce and cook until the tomato is beginning to soften, about 2 minutes more. Add the cream and bring it to a simmer. Reduce the heat to very low. In batches, add the cheese product, stirring until it melts. Stir in the drained macaroni. Transfer the mixture to the baking dish.
4 Mix the panko and remaining 1 tablespoon oil together in a small bowl. Sprinkle them over the macaroni and cheese. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and the topping is browned, about 25 minutes. Let the macaroni stand for 5 minutes, then serve it hot.
MASHED POTATOES
WITH OAXACA CHEESE
Puré de papa con queso Oaxaca
So many dishes call out for mashed potatoes to sop up the sauce, but there are mashed potatoes… and then there are these. They're made with Yukon Gold potatoes, a variety that has more flavor than standard baking potatoes, and some Oaxaca cheese for an extra boost of richness. I strongly recommend a potato ricer to get the desired fluffy texture, or peel the potatoes after cooking and whip them with a handheld electric mixer.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2½ pounds (1.2 kg) Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed but unpeeled
Kosher salt
⅔ cup (70 g) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons heavy cream
1 cup (115 g) shredded Oaxaca or string cheese
Freshly ground white pepper
1 Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and add enough salted water to cover them by 1 inch (2.5 cm). Cover and bring them to a boil over high heat. Uncover and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, about 20 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, melt the butter with the cream in a small bowl in a microwave on high, or in a small saucepan over low heat; set aside.
3 Drain the potatoes well. Working over the saucepan, put the potatoes through a ricer, discarding the skins as they accumulate in the ricer. Whisk in the butter mixture. Stir in the cheese. Season the potatoes to taste with salt and pepper. Serve them hot.
SHIITAKE & VEGETABLE
STIR-FRY
WITH SPICY HOISIN SAUCE
Salteado de verduras y setas shiitake con salsa picante hoisin
In traditional Peruvian cuisine, saltado is a meat stir-fry that is usually served with a topping of fried potatoes. The name comes from the Spanish verb saltar (to jump) because the ingredients "jump" in the skillet or wok. Here is a vegetarian version that leans heavily on the Asian ancestry of this dish. During the summer, when there is a large selection of string beans in the farmers' market, I make this with green, yellow wax, and flat Romano beans. Feel free to experiment with other vegetables as you wish-some of the more tender ones (such as summer squash) will not need the initial blanching, and can be stir-fried for a minute or two in the usual manner before adding the tomatoes, shiitakes, and sauce.
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 ounce (30 g) dried shiitake mushrooms
Boiling water
FOR THE SPICY HOISIN SAUCE:
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon ají panca paste or 2 teaspoons Sriracha
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt
1 pound (455 g) asparagus, woody stems snapped off, spears cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) lengths
12 ounces (340 g) green beans, trimmed and cut into 1½-inch (4-cm) lengths
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 scallions, white and pale green bottom parts chopped, green tops thinly sliced
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
3 garlic cloves, minced
8 to 10 cherry tomatoes, halved
3 tablespoons chopped salted roasted peanuts
Lime wedges, for serving
1 In a small bowl, soak the dried shiitakes in enough boiling water to cover until they are softened, about 30 minutes. Strain out the shiitakes and cut them into quarters; set them aside. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine-mesh wire sieve, leaving any grit in the bottom of the bowl.
2 Make the hoisin sauce: Measure ¼ cup (60 ml) of the soaking liquid into a bowl. Add the hoisin sauce, soy sauce, ají panca, and vinegar and whisk to dissolve the hoisin sauce.
3 Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the asparagus and green beans and cook them (the water does not have to return to a boil) just until they turn a brighter shade of green, about 2 minutes. Drain and rinse them under cold water to stop the cooking. Pat the vegetables dry with paper towels.
4 Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat. Add the oil and swirl the wok to coat the inside with oil. Add the chopped scallion bottoms, ginger, and garlic and stir just until they are fragrant, about 5 seconds. Immediately add the asparagus and green beans and stir-fry them for about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and mushrooms and stir-fry them until they are heated through, about 1 minute more. Add the sauce mixture and stir-fry the vegetables until they are well coated and the sauce thickens, about 1 minute more. Transfer the stir-fry to a serving dish and sprinkle it with the peanuts and sliced scallion tops. Serve it hot, with the lime wedges.
MEXICO CITY–STYLE
CORN ON THE COB
Mazorca de maíz estilo Ciudad de México
Corn on the cob prepared this way-slathered with some kind of creamy condiment, then sprinkled with cheese and chili powder-is a popular street food in Mexico City. The ears are usually stuck on sturdy wooden skewers like vegetable pops. These can be deliciously messy to eat, so lacking a skewer, you may want to stick old-fashioned corn holders on the ends.
SERVES 6
Kosher salt
6 ears of corn, husked
¾ cup (180 ml) Chipotle Aïoli (this page)
¾ cup (105 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon chili powder or pure ground ancho chile
Lime wedges, for serving
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
Six ½-inch (5-mm) thick bamboo food skewers (see Note)
1 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the corn and boil until it is tender, about 6 minutes. Drain the corn.
2 Insert a wooden skewer into the stem end of each ear of corn. Spread each ear with 2 tablespoons of the aïoli, followed with 2 tablespoons of the cheese and ½ teaspoon of the chili powder. Serve them immediately, with the lime wedges for squeezing onto them.
NOTE Pointed thick bamboo skewers for food (such as corn dogs and candy apples) are available at craft stores and online at www.amazon.com. These are thicker and sturdier than the common bamboo skewers. You can also poke a slit in the cob end of each ear with a small, sharp knife and insert a flat wooden frozen pop stick.
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