I think that everyone will agree that the most beloved Mexican dishes are based on tortillas. Tacos, enchiladas, tostadas, nachos, and such begin with tortillas that are augmented with fillings or toppings, and finished off with sauce, cheese, and more. Too often, lower-rung Mexican restaurants toss together a filling with ground beef and spices, the kind of thing that has done nothing to advance the reputation of Latin cuisine. My fillings are carefully made and full of delicious flavor.
The three most useful fillings are made with beef brisket, pork shoulder, and chicken breasts. These first two are tough cuts of meat with lots of gelatin that melts during cooking to give them a rich texture and extra flavor. Chicken breasts, in my opinion, are better than the dark meat cuts because the shredded chicken looks more attractive. Often, the fillings are interchangeable, and you can swap them according to taste. Each filling is braised (a method that is another way to help to keep the meat moist) and then cooled and shredded. The actual preparation for the fillings is minimal, even if the cooking times are relatively long.
In the case of the beef and pork fillings, I've scaled them so you have enough meat for at least two recipes. I encourage you to make the entire amount and refrigerate or freeze the leftovers for another meal. Knowing that you have one of these fillings in the freezer, ready to defrost and turn into one of your favorite Mexican dishes, is a huge advantage, whether making a weeknight supper or a dinner for company.
SHREDDED BEEF FILLING
WITH TOMATOES & CHILIES
Ropa vieja con tomates y chiles
Slowly simmered with tomatoes and jalapeños, this braised brisket is called ropa vieja ("old clothes") because the shredded meat looks like raggedy clothes. There will be about a cup or so of the cooking liquid left over-be sure to save it as a sauce for pasta or polenta. You may even want to serve this as a main course with Mashed Potatoes with Oaxaca Cheese (this page).
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (910 G)
2 tablespoons canola oil, plus more as needed
One 2½-pound (1.2-kg) beef brisket, fat trimmed to ⅛ inch (3 mm)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
4 jalapeños, seeded and coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
One 28-ounce (785-g) can fire-roasted tomatoes
2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano
¼ cup (5 g) finely chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon mesquite-flavored liquid smoke (optional)
1 Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and preheat it to 350°F (175°C).
2 Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the brisket all over with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Place it in the Dutch oven, fat-side down, and cook it, turning after 5 minutes, until it is nicely browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the brisket to a plate.
3 If needed, add another 1 tablespoon oil to the Dutch oven. Add the onion, jalapeños, and garlic and reduce the heat to medium. Cook, stirring them occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and their juices with the oregano and bring them to a boil. Return the brisket to the Dutch oven and add enough hot water to come about three-quarters up the side of the meat. Bring it to a boil over high heat.
4 Cover the Dutch oven and transfer it to the oven. Bake until the brisket is fork-tender, about 2½ hours. Transfer the brisket to a carving board, tent it with aluminum foil, and let it stand for 10 minutes. Set the cooking liquid aside.
5 Using a sharp knife and your fingers, shred the brisket with the grain. Roughly cut the shredded beef across the grain into bite-size pieces. Transfer it to a bowl. Skim off the fat on the surface of the cooking liquid. Stir in about one-third of the cooking liquid to lightly moisten the shredded beef. Add the cilantro, lime juice, and liquid smoke, if using, and mix it again. Season the beef to taste with salt and pepper. (The beef can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Reheat it before using.)
CHICKEN TINGA FILLING
Tinga de pollo
Hailing from Oaxaca, the town in central Mexico famous for its variety of moles, tinga de pollo is spicy shredded chicken and tomato stew that really comes into its own as a filling for tacos and tostadas. Today's supermarket chicken breast halves are huge, but their size allows them to braise without drying out too quickly. Cooling them in the braising liquid will also result in moist and juicy shreds of chicken. You will get a bonus of homemade chicken broth to store for another use.
MAKES 4 CUPS (950 G)
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 large bone-in chicken breast halves with skin, about 2¼ pounds (1.1 kg)
1 medium onion, sliced into ½-inch (12-mm) half-moons
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
Kosher salt
6 whole black peppercorns
1 recipe Tomato-Chipotle Sauce (this page)
Freshly ground black pepper
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the chicken, skin-side down, and cook until the skin is browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate. Add the onion and garlic to the hot fat in the saucepan and cook them, stirring often, until the onion is softened, about 2 minutes. Return the chicken to the saucepan and add enough water to cover it, about 2½ quarts (2.5 L). Stir in 2 teaspoons salt and the peppercorns and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer the chicken until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast reads 160°F (71°F), about 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Let the chicken cool in the liquid until it is tepid, about 1 hour.
2 Strain the chicken and broth in a colander over a large bowl. Transfer the chicken to a carving board. (The broth can be cooled completely, transferred to covered containers, and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months.)
3 Remove the skin and bones and shred the chicken meat with your fingers or two forks. (The shredded chicken can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
4 Heat the sauce in a large skillet over medium heat until it is simmering. Add the chicken and cook, stirring often, until it is heated through. Season the chicken to taste with salt and ground pepper. (The chicken tinga can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Reheat it before using.)
SLOW-COOKED
MEXICAN PORK SHOULDER
Carnitas
There are only three ingredients in my version of carnitas, the classic pork filling for tacos, tortas, enchiladas, and other Mexican favorites. The combination of slow cooking, gelatinous pork shoulder, and lard gives the meat its melting texture and mouthwatering flavor. You don't need anything else because the meat will be mixed with other ingredients when it's used in a recipe.
MAKES 4 CUPS (755 G)
Two 1½-pound (680-g) boneless pork shoulder roasts, cut in half lengthwise to make 4 pieces
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1½ pounds (680 g) store-bought lard (see Note), melted (about 3 cups), as needed
Vegetable oil, if needed
1 The day before cooking, season the pork all over with the salt. Wrap it loosely in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for 12 to 18 hours.
2 Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and preheat it to 300°F (150°C).
3 Rinse the salt off the pork under cold running water and pat it dry with paper towels. Place the pork in a small Dutch oven or deep heatproof casserole just large enough to hold the pieces. Add enough melted lard to barely cover the pork, adding vegetable oil if you run out of lard. Cover it with a lid. Transfer it to the oven and bake until the pork is fork-tender, about 2½ hours. Remove the pork from the oven and let it partially cool in the fat for about 1 hour.
4 Remove the warm pork from the fat and transfer it to a carving board. Transfer about ¼ cup (60 ml) of the warm fat from the pot to a small bowl, cover, and refrigerate it for reheating the pork. Discard the remaining fat. Using two forks or your fingers, shred the pork into bite-size pieces, discarding any excess fat. (The carnitas can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Reheat it with the reserved lard before using.)
NOTE You may find refrigerated small-batch lard sold at some Latin supermarkets and specialty butchers. This beige product has much more flavor than the typical supermarket lard, which is stored at room temperature and is white and highly processed. Even so, you can use the white lard in a pinch.
TOMATO-CHIPOTLE
SAUCE
Salsa entomatada
Fresh tomatoes are the backbone of this sauce and give it its name. Broiling the vegetables deepens their flavors. The amount of chipotle can be increased, of course, but this amount is enough to make an impact, yet not so much that kids won't eat it. This is an all-purpose sauce for enchiladas and great for simmering with meat and poultry for a quick meal.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (480 ML)
1½ pounds (680 g) ripe plum tomatoes
¼ medium white onion
4 garlic cloves, peeled
Olive oil
1 canned chipotle chile in adobo, plus 1 teaspoon adobo sauce
1 tablespoon tomato paste
½ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 cup (240 ml) homemade chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth
Kosher salt
1 Position a broiler rack about 6 inches (15 cm) from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high. Drizzle the tomatoes, onion, and garlic with oil, toss them to coat, and spread them on a broiler rack. Broil until the garlic is browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer the garlic to a bowl. Continue broiling, occasionally turning the tomatoes and onion pieces, until the onion is deeply browned and the tomato skins are charred and blistered, about 3 minutes more. Transfer the tomatoes and onions to the bowl and let the vegetables cool. Peel the tomatoes, cut out the stem ends, and poke out most of the seeds. Return the tomatoes to the bowl.
2 Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the chipotle, adobo sauce, and tomato paste and cook, stirring them occasionally, until the mixture turns dark brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the oregano and cumin seeds. Stir in the stock and reserved vegetables and bring them to a boil, breaking up the tomatoes with the side of a spoon. Reduce the heat to low and simmer them until the tomato juices have lightly thickened, about 20 minutes. Let the sauce cool.
3 Purée the sauce in a blender. Season it to taste with salt. (The sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months.)
TOMATILLO-JALAPEÑO
GREEN SALSA
Salsa verde de tomatillo y jalapeño
Tomatillos are unique: They look like green tomatoes, but their papery husk gives away their relationship to gooseberries. In this sauce, their funky tartness is accented with both serrano and jalapeño chilies for an especially delicious salsa verde for enchiladas and tacos, or even as a dip for chips.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (480 ML)
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ medium yellow onion, chopped
1 serrano chile, seeded and coarsely chopped
½ jalapeño, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1½ pounds (680 g) tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and quartered
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Kosher salt
1 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, serrano, jalapeño, and garlic and cook just until they soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatillos. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook, stirring the vegetables occasionally, until the tomatillos are very tender and falling apart, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the cilantro. Let the vegetables cool.
2 Purée the mixture in a blender and transfer it to a medium bowl. Season it to taste with salt. (The salsa can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 2 months.)
PICO DE GALLO
The name of this chunky fresh salsa translates to "rooster beak," probably because of its sharp flavors of lime and chile. It is used to add a bright splash of color and flavor to many dishes. It is best when freshly made.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (480 ML)
12 ounces (340 g) large tomatoes, seeded and cut into ½-inch (12-mm) dice
2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 serrano chile, seeded and finely chopped
1 teaspoon Maggi seasoning or soy sauce
Kosher salt
Combine all of the ingredients in a medium bowl. Cover them with plastic wrap and refrigerate to chill and blend the flavors, at least 1 and up to 8 hours.
VARIATION Grilled Corn Pico de Gallo: Stir 1 cup (220 g) cooked corn kernels, preferably roasted (see this page), into the salsa.
MOLE VERDE
Mole verde gets its verdant color from tomatillos, poblano chilies, pumpkin seeds, pistachios, and cilantro, all of which contribute to its complex flavor. While it can be used as a sauce for enchiladas, I also use it as an ingredient in Ahi Tuna Ceviche in Mole Verde Broth (this page).
MAKES 1 QUART (960 ML)
½ cup (90 g) shelled pistachios
½ cup (90 g) shelled pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 medium yellow onion, sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 poblano chilies, roasted, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped (see this page)
3 tomatillos, husked, stem end cored, rinsed, and coarsely chopped
¾ teaspoon ground cumin
¾ teaspoon ground coriander
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ teaspoon ground allspice
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
2 cups (480 ml) chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup (35 g) packed fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
1 Heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the pistachios and cook, stirring them occasionally, until they are toasted and lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer them to a plate. Repeat with the pumpkin seeds. Add them to the pistachios.
2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring them often, until the onions are translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the poblanos and tomatillos and cook them until the onions are tender, about 3 minutes more. Add the pistachios and pumpkin seeds, cumin, coriander, pepper, allspice, and cloves and cook until the spices give off their aromas, about 1 minute. Pour in the stock and bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the tomatillos are falling apart, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cilantro, honey, and vinegar. Let the mixture cool.
3 In batches, with the blender lid ajar, purée the mole mixture until it is smooth. Transfer it to a bowl and add more vinegar as needed to balance the flavors. Cover and refrigerate it until chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 2 days. (The mole can be frozen for up to 2 months.)
PICKLED JALAPEÑOS
Jalapeños en escabeche
One sure way to improve your cooking is to use homemade ingredients whenever feasible. For example, while you can buy cans of jalapeños en escabeche or jars of nacho slices, it only takes a few minutes to make your own. The color of the rounds is brighter than the store-bought ones, and using unheated vinegar gives them a crisp texture.
MAKES 1 PINT (480 ML)
4 jalapeños, preferably 2 each red and green, cut into ⅛-inch (3-mm) rounds
½ shallot, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons plain table (noniodized) salt
1 cup (240 ml) distilled white vinegar, as needed
¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
1 small bay leaf
1 Fill a 1-pint (480-ml) heatproof jar with boiling water and let it stand for 5 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, toss the jalapeños, shallot, sugar, and salt together in a medium bowl. Let them stand for a few minutes until the sugar dissolves. Drain the jar. Pack the jalapeño mixture into the jar. Pour in enough vinegar to come ½ inch (12 mm) from the top of the jar.
3 Warm the oil, oregano, and bay leaf in a small saucepan over low heat until small bubbles begin to appear in the oil. Spoon the oregano and bay leaf into the jar, then pour in enough of the hot oil to almost fill the jar. Let it stand until it has cooled to room temperature. Close the jar and refrigerate it overnight. (The chilies can be refrigerated for up to 2 months. The oil on top will harden when refrigerated, so let the chilies stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes to soften the oil before using.)
PICKLED
RED ONIONS
Cebolla morada en escabeche
I use these sweet, hot, and tangy onion rings to top enchiladas and tacos. I can (almost) make them with my eyes closed, and they keep in the refrigerator for weeks. They really perk up a simple green salad, too.
MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP (180 G)
1 medium red onion, cut into ⅛-inch (3-mm) rings
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 cup (240 ml) red wine vinegar
¼ cup (50 g) sugar
1 teaspoon habanero hot sauce or Sriracha
1 Toss the onion and salt together in a colander. Let them stand on a plate for 1 hour. Do not rinse the onions.
2 Transfer the onions to a small heatproof bowl. Bring the vinegar and sugar to a boil in a small nonreactive saucepan over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour the liquid over the onions. Let them cool completely. Stir in the hot sauce. The pickled onions can be used immediately or transferred to a covered container and refrigerated for up to 2 months.
CHIPOTLE
AÏOLI
Alioli con chile chipotle
This hot and smoky mayonnaise doubles as a very useful condiment and garnish. It's worth making to have on hand for sandwiches and any other dish where you want a spicy spread. I often put it in a plastic squeeze bottle to help apply freeform drizzles on food. Be sure that the chile is very well puréed, because if it is too chunky, it will clog up the bottle nozzle. You may want to trim off the end of the nozzle to make a slightly larger opening to allow for easier passage of the aïoli.
MAKES 1 CUP (240 ML)
1 cup (240 ml) mayonnaise
2 canned chipotle chilies in adobo
Purée the mayonnaise and chipotles well in a blender. Transfer them to a covered container. (The aïoli, if not made with homemade mayonnaise, can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)
ACHIOTE
When you see Latin food with a reddish orange color, it is very likely that it contains annatto seed. This hard red spice is not used alone, but ground with other aromatic ingredients into achiote. A spoonful of this heady paste adds color and flavor to a dish. You can buy premade achiote, but look for cubes or packets of paste labeled condimento de achiote (which is seasoned), not tubes or jars of the unseasoned pasta de achiote (which is no more than annatto and vegetable shortening). Achiote only takes a few minutes to make in the blender, and should be in the refrigerator of every cook who loves Latin cuisine.
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP (145 G)
¼ cup (40 g) annatto seeds
¼ cup (60 ml) distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon pure ground ancho chile
1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped
20 black peppercorns
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon kosher salt
3 whole cloves
Grind all of the ingredients together in a blender, adding about ⅓ cup (75 ml) water as needed, to make a thick, fairly smooth paste. Transfer it to a covered container and refrigerate it. (The achiote can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)
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